Will removing handlebars cause high idle?

Just got my bike all put back together (98 5g) and now its acting like the choke is stuck

- The choke lever acts and feels normal
- If i 'snap' the throttle it sounds like its working fine with the bike off
- Same thing with bike running and it revs but doesnt idle all the way back down, and then slowly rises again on its own (like a choke is being pulled)
- The cables are a little loose where they bend and attach to the grips but not kinked or anything (basically the locknut is loose but the cables positions havent changed)

I never messed with any vacuum hoses or handlebar cables while the bike was apart. I did remove the right side handlebar to try and fit a blackbird bar but it didnt fit the fork tube so i put the stock bar back on. I never took apart the cabling, i just removed the whole bar, throttle, brake and all at once.

 

I also did the airbox mod (removed the diaphram hose and plugged it) Have people had to adjust the idle after doing this?

 

Just raised the tank and cant see any loose or ruptured vac hoses. All the cables appear to be operating normally too.

I dont want to blindly adjust the idle if that would just be masking a problem. I really need to know if removing the hose to the airbox flapper causes a condition that requires an idle adjustment. I guess ill just try hooking it back up and see if it idles ok........

 

Hooking it back up didnt change anything.

It appears the throttle is sticking. It wont return fully unless i let go of it from wide open. If i let go from slightly open, i need to force it clockwise to lower the idle.

Adjusted freeplay to its max, no change

 

I hate to just start blindly adjusting things that havent changed since the last time i rode it.................

 

removed cover at throttle, cables seem fine on that end too

So i have a little slack on both cables at the throttle body end, and all seems fine on the throttle end, but i need to force the throttle backwards to lower the idle.


HELP!!!!!!

 

per FSM- free play spec = 2-6mm measured at throttle grip flange

can be adjusted at either end. upper = minor, major = lower

 

make adjustments from throttle body end so the return cable doesn't have any slack in it.
it also sounds like there is a kink in the cable, check to make sure it is routed correctly.

 

I thought about doing that. Is it normal to suddenly need to do this out of the blue? Everything was fine last fall

The cables are def not kinked

 

I decided to clean the throttle plates because the throttle started feeling like it was sticking in the closed position.

I removed the air filter to find that i fogot something when i was putting the bike back together....................




















Wheres my dunce hat, im such a dumbass.........................luckily i never revved it high enough to suck them into the motor

 

that would explain alot

 

Yea i feel really stupid. I had to look directly at them when i put the filter back in........:tongue:

 

You are lucky the paper did not make it into the engine.

I used to be an aircraft engine mechanic. Try this...
When you start inspecting your work, pretend it is not your machine, and that you will get $500. for every mistake you find.

 

haha, good idea.

On the plus side, we now know what paper towels in the throttle bodies makes the engine act like.............

 

LOL!

It's official Bat.........you're a "goob". :lol:

 

I choose definition #4 :biggrin: