98 performance

I thought Jamie's question was focused on weight savings. Going back now and reading his question in the context of the immediate previous posts, I see he was referring to "junk" as the pair valve junk as it relates to the FI system. Doubtless there are benefits from weight savings whether you save it by removing it from the bike or from your butt. Most people here that have reached the point of doing something seriously involving changing anything around the FI system would surely have at least given some thought to how the entire system from intake to exhaust is affected by only changing one thing or using the shotgun approach to try to make gains. At least you would hope they would. Since my experience with these bikes and tuning them is extremely limited, I will return to lurk status now.

Two things are certain in these recent posts:

1. Jamie's witnessing of folks removing things willy nilly from their engine system is something any of us old enough to have been around engines any length of time has seen, as well as watching folks screw their shit up totally doing so. Which brings you to the second item.

2. Failing to sit down and research what you want to do and think out how to go about it is probably not going to get you anything except poorer and frustrated, as Norcalboy pointed out.

 

haven't done anything other than remove all the emission crap, it was about five pounds..I didn't notice any improvement in performance..

 

What kind of insulation did you use for this.

 

The Evap & PAIR parts removal is NOT a performance enhancing mod, end of that discussion.

The Airbox snorkel removal & secondary intake flapper valve disable/removal & associated parts is a performance improving mod, but NOT outright power increasing, it only cleans up the flat spots around the noise regulation measuring revs, 5-6k rpm.

The PAIR parts removal can improve your cruise Fi control, due to the feedback O2 sensors on the 2000+ models. If you have backfires on the overrun & your exhaust joints are in good order the air leak is coming from the PAIR valves, which is why they are there. Just remove the power lead or plug them to prove the point.

Apart from saving a little weight these mods do not do any harm & they are not Fi affecting. The PAIR removal allows a bit more air to circulate around the outside of the engine which is a good thing !

 

Good job Tink,
I have been reading about the pair/evap/snorkel removal for some time. Congrats on trying to break it down. Hope you can get some more info.

 

Hi Mark, The mods are very simple & you can do them in multiple ways. Just remember that if you have an annual inspection that tests the things these moderate, then you may fail those inspections. Basically does the inspection include an exhaust gas analysis ? & if you’re in California, do they check that you have an Evap system installed ? If not then feel free to remove this nonsense.

The Evap system is only fitted to California models AFAIK & basically is a few pounds of tubing which take the fuel tank breather pipe & feed it through a charcoal filter so that the fuel vapours do not escape into the atmosphere. Removing it does nothing but save some weight & allow a better airflow around the engine. The canister is located behind the front exhaust down pipes, just remove it & all associated hoses, then route the breather from the tank down by the front of the gear linkage, you will see other drains there.

The PAIR system is there for emissions control purposes. Basically when you throttle off if you had been accelerating, then unburnt fuel gets into the exhaust system. The PAIR valves & controller allow fresh filtered air from the airbox into the exhaust to burn that excess fuel. This can cause pops & bangs on the over run from the exhaust, my 2kFi did a lot of this.

To disable the PAIR system, you will find a solenoid control valve mounted to the front left of the airbox, with 3 hoses, one to each heads PAIR valve & one to the airbox. This valve is electronic (most other bikes use vacuum valves), so if you follow the lead to its connector on the wiring loom & disconnect it, the PAIR system is now deactivated.

So you now have about 2 pounds of valve & hoses doing nothing. If you remove the valve & hoses, you just need some rubber caps to seal the valves on the heads & the feed from the airbox. Alternately you can buy AA performance PAIR blanking plates, then you only need to seal the airbox connection.


The Snorkel is located on the top right of the airbox, it’s a rubber piece that goes down in behind the headstock on the frame. Just wiggle/lever it out of it slot.

The Flapper valve is located on the top left of the airbox inside the square shaped intake port with a round vacuum valve on top. To disable this, just pull the hose off the vacuum valve & put an M6 bolt in the end of the hose & tape up the pipe on the valve where the hose was to keep dirt out.

You will find after doing the Snorkel & Flapper, that you get a lovely induction noise when you open the throttle hard. You will also find that the flat spot around 5-6k rpm has gone & the bike feels so much more alive.

If your happy with the results, you can remove the vacuum valve, but then you must remove the flapper plate in the square duct or it will flap up & down randomly & annoy you & the bike. You can then remove the associated tubing activation solenoid & vacuum chamber but to do this, you need to remove the whole airbox, so it depends on how mechanically competent you are !

Hope that explains it.

Have fun & enjoy the induction noise, its sweet

 

ready to ride this thing winter is hell.

 

it cant be that bad. im not that far south of u and its perfect outside today.

 

We got 6in of snow and a quarter of inch of ice.

 

Crazy question mybe someone could answer on the 6th gen coils how many wires go into the coils?

 

The 6th gen. coil sticks have three wires in the wire harness connector plugs Matt.

 

So I wonder what they consists of?

 

You mean the wires or the coil sticks Matt? If you mean the coil sticks,they consist of the coil windings. No more bulky ignition coils or spark plug wires to mess around with. The coil sticks basically ARE the ignition coils and spark plug wires all rolled into one. There's one coil stick per spark plug on the 6th gens.



Okay so I guess that begs the question-Why would you be asking about the coil sticks Matt?
Which I suppose in turn leads to another more important question-Are you thinkin' of doing what I'm thinkin' you're thinkin' of doing? :eyebrows:
(Holy S:censored:T that was a lot of thinkin' in that last sentence!)

If so just a heads up Matt the RC51 uses coils and spark plug wires just like your 5th gen. does. However Scott's Motorcycle Service offers a kit that consists of a couple wire harness pigtails and a pair of coil sticks from a CBR1000RR that completely eliminates the stock coils and spark plug wires on the RC51.

I'm NOT saying that this particular kit would work for you Matt,but if you're thinkin' of doing what I'm thinkin' you're thinkin' of doing (Dammit there we go with that thinkin' again! :heh you might wanna contact Scott and ask him if it's possible for this kind of modification to work on your bike.
I mean,that is if you're thinkin' what I'm thinkin' you're thinkin'. :wink:

Here's the link to Scott's website.>>>>>Scotts Motorcycle Service - Servicing all Street & Crusier bikes ATV & Parts





Oh man.......I gotta go lay down my head hurts from all that thinkin'. :lol:

 

Im thinkin you & me are on the same page.

 

Spoke with a guy named steve today and he says he can build me a kit he would just need measurements etc..

 

Well they have built a kit. For four coils and the wiring harness and plugs for 300 bucks.

 

Pics Please Matt!

Weigh all those components first before you install them,then weigh all the old components that you removed from the bike.
I'm kinda curious to see what your net weight savings is.

 

Sorry to leave you guys hanging for so long. I ha e completed all of the winter mods that money will allow unfortunately I wasnt able to get the stick coils like I wanted this season. Ill have some photos up shortly showing the delinking of the brakes and other random things I have done to it.

 

here are some pictures of what has been done.

 

As you can see I pretty much copies mello dude the bike now has a full super hawk front end from forks to calipers and fender. I also bought a set of VFR750 braided brake lines got a firm lever that can be modulated very easy then I added a braided clutch line to dress things up a bit. Also I capped the emissions system off and removed. Eager to ride this sucker but I got to wait for my rear tire ill give y'all a update on how she stops now as soon as the tire comes in.