'86 VF500 -- Get it Running Again!

That's ok. I appreciate the offer, but it really stopped being fun there for a while to work on it, so I think this was the best path... when I get ready to ride though I'll drop you a line.

 

Well the shop has to order needles, seats, o rings and floats... And the gas tank is rusted too thin in places for them to be able to clean and seal it. Goddamn motorcycle.

 

Bummer on the tank...any chance you would consider - only if the tank is too far gone to restore of course - cutting it in half along the long axis (front to back) as a reference to how the tank is constructed inside?

There have been several threads on how the VF500F tanks are not good candidates for sealing due to how they are constructed. It would be great to have a cross-section photo of a tank to see what is actually going on in there.

Thx!

 

I have a beat up tank I've considered dissecting...don't think I have enough cut off wheels for my dremmel to make it happen though =(

 

Please do!

I'm happy to send you a case or two of Dremel cut-off wheels.

This would be a great resource for VF500F owners - solving the mystery of how these tanks are constructed inside and why sealing them isn't the best option.

 

I think a few cases is what it would take...instead I might run up to Harbor Freight this weekend and buy that air cutter I've had my eye on =P

 

Even better - there is nothing like the sound of an air powered cut off tool cutting through sheet metal. You'll have that tank in two in under a minute + a new tool for the tool box. Can't top that.

 

Considering the odd construction... Any good sealer may just fill in those odd recesses in the lower part... You might lose a bit of volume. But if you get out as much as you can, then let the tank sit in the same position it would on the bike to dry the excess may fill up those spaces.

 

Update: Fay Meyers is really twistin' my balls with the carbs... I don't even want to know anymore how much that is going to cost me.

However I did find another local shop that was much more highly recommended by several other places to do the tank, Faster Motorsports... so I'll keep my fingers crossed they are able to do it at all.

 

Did the tech give you an idea of the cost to rebuild the carburetors? There are a few other options out there if you haven't committed to this shop.

Please keep us posted on the tank.

Thx!

 

They told me they'd be ordering pins, seats, floats, o-rings... and one other thing I'm not remembering at the moment, and besides the general labor to do the work, I'm looking at $400ish in parts.

 

If you are willing to ship your set of carburetors and you are okay with a bit of a lead-time, here are two options:

Billy Carr
email - billycarrjr@earthlink.net
web site - Welcome to V4 Market - The Store For Your V4

Mike Nixon
email:mikenixon@earthlink.net
web site:http://www.motorcycleproject.com/motorcycle/text/picture%20ad.pdf

 

Shit... shoulda asked or done some sort of research to find a cheaper way to get this done before I ok'ed them to order the parts...

 

No worries - the above two contacts do excellent work but that is not to say that your local tech won't as well. The V-4 carburetors aren't super complicated to rebuild, for a qualified tech, but they do have their individual quirks so it's important to ask your local tech if they have experience working on these.

 

Their advertised rate is also lower... but the tech at Fay said he's experienced with the type.

 

Rule #1 is never say you can't do something. If the guy said "I've never worked on carbs like that before" you probably would have walked! I agree with IC, let's hope he's being truthful and everything should turn out just fine.

 

Update: got the carbs back today. Any tips on reinstalling them?

The shop that has my tank sounded VERY confident they'd have my tank in great shape come Tuesday or Wednesday.

 

Update on the update. Carbs are going in. The throttle and chicks cables were a ^#+%= to get hooked up, but they're in.

How in the hell do you get the assembly seated on the 4 fittings? The clymer manual says to install the front two first, them push down to seat the rears. Well, that isn't working for moi...

 

It's going to really, really suck. You lube up the rubber, get the front two in, screw them in, and then get the back two in. I've devised a method that uses two ratchet straps connected to the carb and wrapped around the engine block. One is perpendicular to the ground and the other at a 45 degree angle. That allows me to get them in one click at a time. If you want to go that route I have give you some more help, but I have snapped the metal pan the carbs are mounted to so... it's not exactly safe.

 

New boots?

A new set of OEM 'carb insulators' will help to make the installation process easier.