VF500F Valves

That graphic is awesome!

I have not contacted them, I literally stumbled across them last night, late. I was looking through some ebay stuff for the vf500 and saw someone had a website, went to their site, and found they had some stuff from kibblewhite for other bikes. From there I googled kibblewhite and found what looks like a good company to deal with. As long as they're not too expensive!

 

It lives! For the first time since last seaseon, I gave the old bike a good run today, over 100 miles, with a few stops. It's running better than ever! I still have a "dead" spot in the rpm range, just below 7500 or so. Once it hits 7500 or so, it pulls strong! The idle is much more consistant than last year.

I still need to tighten the exhaust pipes on the rear head, since I didn't get them tight before putting the engine back in the bike, Oops!

 

Great news, indeed! The world seems a bit more in balance when another VF500F roars to life. Kudos!

 

Congrats! Happy to hear you are back on the road.

Is anyone following up on this parts source?

 

I'll give it a go.

 

Congrats JPorter!

 

Here is the skinny on Kibblewhite Precision Machining – a shout out to Warren Fong an Applications Engineer, at Kibblewhite, who responded to my questions.

While they do not currently offer a kit for the VF500F they would be happy to make one for the '84/'85 and also for the '86 (I explained that they are different).

As a reference point they did offer a kit for the VTR250 but they discontinued this awhile back - due to lack of orders.

The valves are a straightforward fabrication (‘a simple copy and make’) and have no lead time. The springs would require engineering & design and would take btwn 8-12 weeks to supply.

The valves (made from 214N) are $50 each. The spring kit (including Ti retainers, springs & lower collars) will be in the $450 - $500 range, depending on how many orders are placed. Valve guides, made from SAE630, are also available.

They do not offer cams or rockers.

The 214N valves are fine to use with the stock valve seats.

Also, stock valves can be used with the Kibblewhite spring kit - though it is recommended that the valves be replaced at the same time as the springs.

A bit of an expensive investment but good to know this is an option.

For those who are still reading this post … here is a bit more intel on the materials per Warren’s email:

The valves are made from the same material we have been using for the last 50 years or so. It’s a material called 214N; this material has been classified as a premium exhaust material by the Society of Automotive Engineers. However we use it on both intake and exhaust. All valves are one piece forged and will have the black nitrite coating on the stem for better wear in the guide. The valve guides are made from Nickel, Aluminum, and Bronze. Better known as Ampco 45, this is gold in color. This material also called SAE630 works well with heat transfer, machinability and corrosive resistance. We have also been using this material for a long time and offer it for every application we have.

 

Great info. Thanks for the find JPorter and the digging IC.

If anyone buys from them, let us know.

 

Wow, that's a bit pricey, but I'm sure well worth it. I was estimating (anticipating? Hoping?) about $100 less on the springs, and had a price in mind of $30-40 for the valves. This, along with the megacycles rework of the cams and rockers would be well over $2k, just in the heads!

Thanks IC for the follow-through! I've been a bitt to busy to do it right now, not to mention I don't have the funds right now to do it anyway!

 

FYI - Kibblewhite is supplier who the well-known V4 engine builder Dave Dodge has gotten his engine parts from for a long time. Their work is top notch, as the prices indicate. They have a great deal of experience with all motorcycle applications, but all we care about is their background with the V4's.

 

Warren from Kibblewhite suggested ordering a few spring kits and sets of valves at one time to help keep the price point down - though I am not sure that there will be enough interest in this, for a group buy.

Still, it's good to know that this is an option for the VF500F.

 

Could we talk about the possibility of a group buy?

(I've been reading this thread for the last few days... I think I'm hearing excessive valve chatter, but I can't be sure; either way, wanted to read up on what I may have to do/ spend)

 

Have you checked the valve lash?

 

That's happening this weekend. Weekdays, I get home from work and all I want to do is either ride a bit and pass out, or have a beer and pass out.

But, yeah, I've got to do that and visually inspect all the valves for pitting/ mushrooming. Better safe than sorry and stuck with more yard art that won't run.

 

Maintenance, proper warm up, a top grade of motor oil and keeping the rev's in check are all part of a checklist that will help to insure the engine's longevity.

If you don't know this bike’s maintenance history - I'd hold off riding until you complete a visual inspection & check on the valve lash.

 

*whoops, I've inadvertently hijacked this thread :/ *

The impression I got from the PO is that he took it to a shop for all of it's servicing. Some time last fall, he had a scare (thanks, cage drivers) and stopped riding all together. He emptied the fuel tank, ran the engine with the petcock on off until it turned off to empty the float bowls, and stored it. That's the condition I bought it in. We put gas in it, a dash of seafoam, and viola, it ran on the 3rd try.
I agree with you %99.99999 percent on holding off on riding... but it's SO ADDICTINGLY WONDERFUL!

Proper warm up, check
Keeping the revs in check, definite check (as much as I'd like to explore the upper quarter of the rev band, everything from 4-8ish k rpms seems to have everything I need.
Oil, kid said he always put Mobil 1 synthetic in it. I plan on changing over to Honda HP4.
Maintenance, sorta check. I'm no mechanic, but I do like to tinker, fix things on my own. I do know my limits though. Anything that has me working with tolerances and fine details goes right to the pros.

Thanks for the tips, mate!

 

Happy to help. You'll find some more intel on adjusting the valve lash here:

http://vfrworld.com/forums/1st-2nd-generation-1983-1989/30834-valve-clearances.html

 

Good luck with the valve check. I hope the chatter is a easy fix.

Listen to IC. He knows what he's doing.

 

I don't mind the threadjack! It's commonplace on the other forum that I use everyday!

By keeping the revs in check, I've read on here that there's nothing to be gained over about 10k or so. I have been keeping it there myself, until the oil pressure gremlins showed up.

 

I don't take mine past 10k either. I do remember that I took it to 12k on my new one 20 odd years ago and I remember that it does keep pulling right to the limit, sounds cool too. Very linear powerband on these bikes with no real noticable drop offs right to redline.

I now take the risk management approach and keep it under 10k and go there relatively infrequently too, maybe once per ride and after she is well warmed up.