Valve clearances

Discussion in '1st & 2nd Generation 1983-1989' started by 86INTERCEPTOR500@NCSU, May 31, 2010.

  1. 86INTERCEPTOR500@NCSU

    86INTERCEPTOR500@NCSU New Member

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    I borrowed mine from the a friend at my local honda shop, it is the blue and while one for the 84-86 interceptor/magna
     


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  2. slowbird

    slowbird Member

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    I have a Honda service manual for 1984-86 with all the updated sheets attached.

    I'll take a look.
     


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  3. horseiron1

    horseiron1 New Member

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    A note about Service Honda. They DO NOT sell Honda tools. I tried and they refered me to their faq which tells you they don't sell the tools. They list them but don't sell them. Go figure
     


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  4. 86INTERCEPTOR500@NCSU

    86INTERCEPTOR500@NCSU New Member

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    Is there any reason that valves would tick loud other than wrong valve clearances?
     


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  5. slowbird

    slowbird Member

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    From my shop manual:

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     


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  6. slowbird

    slowbird Member

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    The shop manual list possible reasons for excessive noise as:

    -Incorrect valve adjustment
    -Sticking valve or broken valve spring
    -Damaged or worn Camshaft
    -Loose or worn cam chain
    -Worn or damaged Cam Chain Tensioner
    -Worn Cam sprocket teeth
    -Worn rocker arm and/or shaft


    Not much help is it
     


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  7. 86INTERCEPTOR500@NCSU

    86INTERCEPTOR500@NCSU New Member

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    Is there any way to get ahold of those valve stem caps? seems like that would help alot.
    Thanks for the list of things to check, I will dig into those tomorrow as a double check. I have been going through that whole part of the top end and cannot find anything so far thats obvious, maybe I am just overthinking it. It is probably right in plain sight but I just cant figure it out!! Anyways, if I cannot figure it out this week I am going to take it to the honda shop up the road and have them look at it. :/ I like to do things myself but this has really got me stumped...
     


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  8. tinkerinWstuff

    tinkerinWstuff Administrator Staff Member

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    Personally, I don't agree. It's easier to use 1 feeler gauge between the cam and the lifter. You use a feeler gauge that's like half of the spec size so that it's the right dimension out at the valve. I use a piece of hose to turn the valve tappets down until it contacts the valve. using the hose makes sure you get even tension on both screws. Then turn the motor over slightly so there's pressure against the adjusters and tighten the locknut. It's very simple really.
     


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  9. tinkerinWstuff

    tinkerinWstuff Administrator Staff Member

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  10. 86INTERCEPTOR500@NCSU

    86INTERCEPTOR500@NCSU New Member

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    I too use the 1 feeler gauge method and it was really simple and easy except for the intake valves on cylinder #4, I did those the exact same but cannot seem to get it right. I am looking into other possible causes for the ticking.

    The hose to turn down the tappets is a good idea!! havent thought of that thanks!!
     


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  11. tinkerinWstuff

    tinkerinWstuff Administrator Staff Member

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    when the hose slips, you know it's tight but not too tight. I actually think I used a plastic nozzle from a tube of gasket sealer or something like that. I had the hole in the end just right that it would slip on the end of the tappet adjuster and allow me to turn it and then slip when it contacted the valve.
     


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  12. GreyVF750F

    GreyVF750F Member

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    Thanks for the info. I've never done it that way. I'll have to try it next time, then check it the way I do it. The only problem I can see is when you tighten the lock nuts. They will pull the adjuster tight against their threads and sometimes one has more pull/clearance than the other. That shouldn't really be a problem as long as it gets double checked with two feeler gauges. Does seem easier though.
     


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  13. tinkerinWstuff

    tinkerinWstuff Administrator Staff Member

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    always more than one good way to get a job done. :thumbsup:

    The guy who owned my 500 before me tried to adjust them without either method and what a mess that thing turned out to be. There wasn't a single tappet in the head that was close to right.
     


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  14. The_Hamster

    The_Hamster New Member

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    So with the Dave Dodge method no special tool is necessary?
     


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  15. invisible cities

    invisible cities New Member

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    Righto, the OEM 'Tappet Adj. Tool' is not required when going with Dave Dodge's method for adjusting valve clearance. Though I haven't tried DD's method it seems to be the recommended technique* of many owners here on the Forum.

    ***update***

    Using two feeler gauges is the recommended over the Dave Dodge method. Lash should be inspected every 4,000 miles.
     
    Last edited: Jan 2, 2011


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  16. 86INTERCEPTOR500@NCSU

    86INTERCEPTOR500@NCSU New Member

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    Does anyone have any other ideas on why one rocker/valve set would make a clack every revolution when set just like all the others and they run perfectly? Im out of ideas..
    Anything will help, any off the wall one shot in a million thing I will be willing to try at this point
     


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  17. invisible cities

    invisible cities New Member

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    One thought, did you check the service limits on the inner and outer valve springs before assembly?
     


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  18. 86INTERCEPTOR500@NCSU

    86INTERCEPTOR500@NCSU New Member

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    Thanks for the idea! but yes I did check them all before reassembling.
     


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  19. Hawkrider

    Hawkrider New Member

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    Here's a question: If using the DD single feeler gauge method and you have one valve that is worn more than another, wouldn't that cock the rocker to one side or another? The DD method seems to assume you have equal wear on both valves.
     


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  20. tinkerinWstuff

    tinkerinWstuff Administrator Staff Member

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    False. Works perfect, can't explain without drawing a picture.
     


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