New Project bike hits the stable - '90 VFR750

Discussion in '3rd & 4th Generation 1990-1997' started by tinkerinWstuff, Apr 2, 2010.

  1. Badbilly

    Badbilly Official VFRWorld Troll Of The Year!

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    What? you aren't going to whine to TC for some help? You just blew your chance for a menage a troi with the numbnuts twins, Cundanutsack and Krispyscrotum.

    Dude, if you are really plastic welding, you don't need any "fibreglass" ( BTW the cloth is the fibreglass) Both epoxy and polyester resin doesn't adhere well to ABS plastic. Pry out all that old shit and start over. You ain't got rid of those decals yet. Those on the tank are under the clearcoat and on top of the color coat. The stick ons will come off with a little heat and some help with paint thinner or naptha. Lighter fluid is naptha. So are some barbeque starters.

    Reinforcement on the backside of ABS fairings is better done IMO with screenwire, locked down with the stick weld or one of the MEK based adhesives. The paint on the backsides of the pieces has to be removed too.

    Painting just parts that you are fixing is a waste of time. That red has faded and getting a match will be impossible. A little trick if you plan to use the red again or especially if you are going to change color or colors is to shoot out all the backsides of all the chunks of ABS with a flat black, then your detail work on the front starts bigtime.

    If your local Honda dealer hasn't run you off for telling him how to run his business, he just might have a chunk of a busted fairing to make some new tabs. The plastic weld ain't gonna work. Hold em in place with a drop of "superglue" and use one of the many proprietary ABS adhesives on the market. Most if they sound too good, ain't.

    I know you know more about this than probably anyone in the world, but if you fuck it up you can blame me. I understand.
     


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  2. NorcalBoy

    NorcalBoy Member

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    The irony of this is epic. Interested to see if personal dignity will overpower the yearning for a top notch result......
     


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  3. tinkerinWstuff

    tinkerinWstuff Administrator Staff Member

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    thanks for the tips. I've been watching vids from Urethane Supply Company - Plastic Repair and Plastic Welders and saw their stainless wire mesh product for support like you suggested. They had a few other liquid and powder products for creating tabs and missing components. Awefully pricey though.
     


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  4. Fazer1Sniper

    Fazer1Sniper New Member

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    I have had luck using an epoxy like JB weld or PC13 & alumiminum or nylon screen to build tabs or repair heavy damage. Kinda red neck, but it has worked for me.
     


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  5. Badbilly

    Badbilly Official VFRWorld Troll Of The Year!

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    Then ya got the old plastic coat hanger and propane torch repair kit at Walmart for a buck 99.

    Here's the real deal.. Doing the repair right is critical. Do it wrong or slipshod and it's not gonna hold. Finding out after spending a shitload of money on repair materials that are just OK and not being really careful and not thinking things through will jump up and bite ya right on the ass after spending several hundred bucks on paint, not to mention those $7.50 a pop black ABS expansion rivets.
     


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  6. elwray

    elwray New Member

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    Good luck!
     


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  7. betarace

    betarace New Member

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    dont get too fine on the parts you want to fill. the filler works TONS better with rough (and clean) surfaces.
     


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  8. betarace

    betarace New Member

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  9. tinkerinWstuff

    tinkerinWstuff Administrator Staff Member

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    That's the same product I saw on urethane supply. Sells for $35 or more over there. Plastex websites "shop now" link wasn't working for me so I didn't see if they had a price listed.

    Have you used it beta?
     


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  10. betarace

    betarace New Member

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    havent used it, but saw it in the flesh and demoed at a bike show... looks legit
     


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  11. BWeiss

    BWeiss Johnny Partseed

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    I used some of that plastex before. Maybe i didnt quite get the hang of using it, but the plastic turned out to be very brittle and/or didnt adhere well to the things I was try to fix. Give it a try, you may get better results if you sit down and really figure it out...
     


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  12. tinkerinWstuff

    tinkerinWstuff Administrator Staff Member

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    More plastic welding complete. Still have repairs left to do on both side panels, one upper, and one lower.

    broken slot
    [​IMG]

    replace piece cut and fit - before prep/grinding
    [​IMG]

    sorry, no finish photo on that one

    Prep for welding replacement tab
    [​IMG]

    tab before grinding
    [​IMG]

    another view of tab before grinding
    [​IMG]

    both side panels, replaced 3 tabs
    [​IMG]
     


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  13. Fazer1Sniper

    Fazer1Sniper New Member

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    Nice work. Looking forward to see how the tabs hold up.
     


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  14. Badbilly

    Badbilly Official VFRWorld Troll Of The Year!

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    Optimum bond on "plastics" is with the same plastic used as the matrix. Not always possible even with the latest technology plastic welding techniques. Short of that increasing the surface area of the bond is IMO a good idea.

    Those tabs can be held in place with a couple of drops of gel type superglue and then "welded" either with the actual stick welding or by one of the adhesives. Inreasing the surface area or the bond can be accomplished by drilling a series of small holes in and around the area that is being repaired making sure the entire area is free of any paint or primer so that the process works.

    Kind of one of those "measure twice, cut once" deals in spades.

    Look for more cracks after your first coat of primer too.
     


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  15. tinkerinWstuff

    tinkerinWstuff Administrator Staff Member

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    You and me both. The keys to success are good workholding. You have to get the plastic melted to the point where it is puddy and then melt rod into it. If you don't get the pieces to be joined heated thru enough then the rod only grips the surface and seperates easily. I've found it to be a lot easier to repair cracks than to join seperate pieces. I've been sure to test fit the mid and uppers. The slot in the upper I repaired (photo above of the layup) is holding nicely when fit to the mid. The front scoop was broken at the thinest spot and that held up well to abuse (handling and laying in that pile on the floor).

    So basically, I'm saying that I think the process works well. The difference between a good weld and bad, just like with metal welding, is in the hands of the operator. I would compare the technique as very similar to acetylene torch welding on metal. The challenges of controlling heat into thinner parts, corners, edges, etc. exhist with the plastic hot air torch.
     
    Last edited: May 2, 2010


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  16. tinkerinWstuff

    tinkerinWstuff Administrator Staff Member

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    I wondered about using an adhesive as a temporary hold but hadn't tried it. I did have one tab break off in test fit because I hadn't heated the piece enough as mentioned in my post above. I took your suggestion in an earlier post and picked up a piece of CBR middle to use in reconstruction of pieces. I haven't tried using at as weld material yet.

    Getting the CBR piece did not win me any friends. I went to a local salvage yard and asked about getting a broken piece of plastic to use in repairs. They said all their broken plastics were over the brick wall and tossed up on the hill. They warned me it might be muddy up there but if I wanted to check it out, go ahead. So I did a lap thru the yard then jumped the wall, climbed the hill, and found a piece of CBR fairing with cracks and roadrash that I thought had some nice features I could use.

    Drug it down to the counter and asked the guy again how much. (Don't go the the salvage yard wearing a tie) - he said $20. Maybe I'm nuts but I thought that was :crazy: I asked him about another part I saw in the yard that was broke clear in half and missing the top section. He was getting agitated and said he'd have to see it but probably $15. I went out, grabbed the other part and came in with $10 in my hand. He said, "just take it, if it's not worth what I'm asking then it's not worth anything."

    I didn't want to insult anyone and I didn't expect anything for free. He's there to make a living, pay wages, and keep the lights on. However, I just didn't see paying top dollar for something that you couldn't give away on ebay. All well, I drug that 1st part all the way back around the building, over the wall, up the hill and put it back. Grabbed my freebe that pissed off ol' uncle Jessie and slunk my ass out of there.
     


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  17. Badbilly

    Badbilly Official VFRWorld Troll Of The Year!

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    "Don't go to a salvage yard wearing a tie" LOL!!! That is Tshirt material..

    If the dude was smart, he'd have given you the scrap in the first place. He's out zero bucks and gets goodwill brownie points on top of that for the next time you show up.

    The gel superglue is like right now for holding parts in place for further work. Especially those %^%## tabs and slots..

    Lookin good so far..
     


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  18. Bubba Zanetti

    Bubba Zanetti Member

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    Hey Tink, why a cover on your cruiser?

    Dust and tools flying in your garage LOL?

    BZ
     


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  19. rogersj3

    rogersj3 New Member

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    This is somewhat leftfield material, but as I'm beginning the process of getting mine sorted out I had the following thought: would it be possible to use existing cracked fairings as a mold for making your own carbon fiber replacements? You all seem to have a pretty good idea about what can be done with composites; I've only got experience working with metals. What do you think?

    Edit: http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/carbon-fiber-motorcycle-parts/
     


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  20. betarace

    betarace New Member

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