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5G front brakes dragging

Discussion in 'Mechanics Garage' started by AndyJ, Apr 27, 2010.

  1. AndyJ

    AndyJ New Member

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    Anyone have any additional suggestions for things to try?

    I did a search last week, and over the weekend:
    -pulled all the calipers out, cleaned the crud off the pistons, all the pistons move freely and retract.
    -cleaned/relubed all the sliders
    -Brake fluid change/bleed (PITA!)
    -Disassembled front M/C, made sure the return hole was clear

    I'm still getting quite a bit of drag, where the wheel turns ~1 turn or less when I spin it on the stand.
     


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  2. betarace

    betarace New Member

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    did you hone the brake cylinder?
    check rotors for warp/runout?
     


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  3. Squamish VFR

    Squamish VFR New Member

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    Ensure the brake leaver retracts all the way to zero? If it doesn't the venting port won't open. There is an old post about that somewhere. Also sounds like you might have not got out all the air, did you follow the procedure to the letter?
     


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  4. AndyJ

    AndyJ New Member

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    Thanks for the quick replys, guys!
    Beta - the rotors are within spec, can't remember the runout right now at work. It's not periodic dragging, like from warping. I didn't think to try honing the bore-visually it looked OK no scoring or anything. I could try it as a rule-out.
    Yes, followed the procedure in all it's glory, and I also saw some comment about making sure the piston comes out all the way-I could see bubbles coming out of the return hole when I first started bleeding so the return is opening.
    Now I'm wondering if maybe there's a bubble hiding in there from the rear M/C to the front middle piston on one side? The rear doesn't drag, though. There look to be about 345432 places for a bubble to hide in those long lines.
     


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  5. Squamish VFR

    Squamish VFR New Member

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    I think you're on the right track. seems to me there's an air bubble. I've never heard of honing the caliper pistons' bore but if the move freely and this is the result of simply swapping the fluid and bleeded then you probably don't need to go there. An idea would be to take off one caliper put a spacer in it's jaws like a bit of flat bar and try, then do the other side. Is it one caliper or the other or both? would that work to narrow it down? Guys like you have me worried as I want to change my fliud too.
     


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  6. ridervfr

    ridervfr Member

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    My brakes dragged/my unit is a 91 model so I took the pistons out and cleaned the tea off them and took the o rings out too. I then cleaned the hell out of the calipers with soap and hot water. I used some special aviation etching stuff inside the calipers which is the same as anodizing them. I then re-assembled them with the old o-rings and dust seals and my brakes work teetes now...take apart ur calipers and clean out the mug behind the o rings....thats what srewing up your brakes.
     


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  7. paul.miner

    paul.miner New Member

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    Your rotor could be coned, which is a kind of consistent warp. I had this happen to the rear rotor on my Katana. One way to check is to hold a straight-edge across the rotor so that it touches opposite or near opposite edges. It should be flush against the disc the entire way. Another thing to check is that the rotor is centered in the caliper. In this picture, you can see mine was way off: http://www.blinkenbyte.org/motorcycles/gsx600f.2009.05.28/rotor-off-center-2.jpg
     


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