Is a brake bleed neccessary after a pad replacement?

I am a new owner of a 1998 VFR800. I noticed that the pads were close to be needing to be replaced so I went ahead and did it. I was very happy with how simple the job was but my brakes still feel soft.

I am also a new rider...just licensed last season. I really don't think I've ridden enough to really tell if the LBS is working. I read about the likes/dislikes about it but I get off my machine after a ride and wonder what LBS "should" feel like because all I know is I use either front or back brake and I slow down/stop. The brakes on this machine don't grab like the ones on the 89 Yamaha FJ600 I had last season. It seems as though I can't lock the rear wheel if I tried.

The bleed process kinda makes me nervous.

 

All VFRs starting from '98 to present are impossible to lock the rear wheel. It's sort of a safety feature. Anyway, an easy way to tell if your bike needs new brake fluid is to look at the brake fluid color. It should be clear but if it's dark and muddy it's time to replace it.

 

Thanks Joey...so by the looks of it, my LBS is working and working the way it should be.

The brake fluid is amber like my favourite beverage! So I guess that has to be done.

The clutch fluid is milky...I know that has to be changed.

 

simple test for LBS braking...... do bout 40 k , hammer on rear brake....and if the front end drops like a rock in a pond of water, Lbs is working

Bleeding is not necessary upon pad replacement..... but i do it anyways while im there.....FOLLOW MANUAL EXACT TO LETTER For bleeding procedure or u will fuck it up.... it takes bout 1hr

 

You should do a "mini bleed" by opening the reservoir top --- in order to check level and add more fluid--- then go around the bike--after consulting the service manual to find the best sequence-- and bleed out about 1 oz of fluid ( one or two pulls on the lever) from each caliper, keeping the reservoir nearly full always.

This will remove air bubbles and moisture-contaminated fluid.

bleeding necessary?? NO. A good idea, YES.

New pads need to be carefully "bedded in" to get the best performance.

 

You do not need to bleed the brakes after a pad replacement. You may need to remove the res. cover to let some fluid out
if you have trouble getting the new pads in. That can happen.

DOT 5 fluid does NOT absorb moisture. IT is silicone based. DOT 3,4 and 5.1 can absorb moisture.
To bleed the brakes use a bleeder tool OR get a glass jar and put some brake fluid in it. attach a hose to the bleed nipple and put the other end of the hose in the jar in the fluid, and that way air cannot back up into the system.

 

But Don, bleeding is simply routine preriodic maintenance....and you're saying it should be ignored ???

Don't think our man Boosh is using #5 fluid.

 

Donald and Squirrerlman know their stuff, and cant stress enough how important it is to follow the service manual for the bleeding procedure and DONT USE DOT 5.0

 

same here . just like everyone's saying . replace and bleed................... the brakes not you. good luck

 

I did not say that. I said that when you replace brake pads you do not have to bleed brakes.
I have never seen a service manual that has a schedule of bleeding of brakes.It usually says CHECK brakes.
Brakes are usually bled after disassembly, for a repair, or change of fluid, master cylinder rebuild, something like that.

 

Yes ....Follow your service manual. Absolutely AND write down the date that you performed the maintenience and what was done.
Some vehicles do use DOT 5 fluid because it has the second highest performance numbers and there is less corrosion because there is no water accumulation.
H-D used DOT 5 and now have switched back to DOT 4. I have used DOT 5 as recommended for some brakes and I had no problems.
There is a lot written about types of brake fluids on the net, and you can look it up and read it.

 

Sometimes grabbing brakes can be caused by the diameter of the brake line.
The size of the brake line can also determine the feel and feedback to the riders hands.

 

My experience has been that most service manuals say brakes should be "checked", Or pads inspected and or replaced at certain levels.
I have never seen a "bleed the brakes" item on the maintenience list except after a repair.

 

Removing the top of the reservoir does not bleed the brakes at all.
There is a particular order for bleeding different wheels on cars, but not on motorcycles except
maybe these brand new bikes that have front and rear brake balancing systems.

 

There is a very specific sequence and procedure for bleeding honda lbs. fluid should be changed once a year, more regulalrly if you ride a lot or ride agressively. a high quality dot4 is all that is required. you do not have to bleed the brakes every time you replace the pads. it is always a bad idea to open up a sealed hydraulic brake system just for the hell of it, if you're not planning on draining and refilling, don't expose the fluid to atmosphere, especially if it is humid.

 

There is a very important steps to follow with the LBS so u get all the old out.. You Dot fluid is only as good as the LOWEST boiling point ( the shitty old fluid boils state) that is left in the system.
Normal Procedure for Non LBS is start the farthest away from the res. and work towards.... U will notice in the service manual there r 2 procedures.... follow the second, the first is for a vacuum setup
If ya want to use the best Dot Fluid its " DOT 5.1 " has the highest boiling point and mixes with 4 and 3.
I have heard of people using the Dot 5.0 in the LBS system and need a rebuild because yes it doesn't damage paint but it LOVES to Eat rubber seals. Donald what was your Exp with it? I personally think 5.0 is the devil in bikes... Mainly cause there is 5.1 on the market

 

Spot on! it probably doesnt need to b changed every yr, now after saying that, I do mine every yr. Mainly cause i am board in the winter and it gives me a reason to play in the shop.

 

why not use the 5.0? what will it do? Just curious, forgive the hijack.

 

What a timely thread! I stopped just short of the brake bleed portion of my complete fluid change on my '99. Vavle's checked, K & N recharged, oil & filter changed, Cooling system purged and anti freeze changed. Clutch system purged of very dirty fluid, and bled with new Honda line dot 4. Ran out of time to do brake system, but thats next, and then I can reasemble the body work! I've decided to replace both tires with Conti Road Attacks before spring, but I can do that with the body work on! She'll be ready to ride as soon as the weather permits. Did find all new brake pads upon inspection of brakes! I'm dragging my feet just a bit, cause when the VFR is done it's on to the old Guzzi, which needs its engine removed to replace the rear crank seal. The motors not been removed in 40 years, so I'm hoping it's not too big of an issue.......would hate to screw up an old survivor like this. While the motors out I'll replace all gaskets and seals that don't require dropping the crank. Hope to make the old girl as oil tight as you can make an old Guzzi. All the while the ZRX is there if the weather permits.....it's even already dirty!

 

5.0 Does
- not absorb mosture resulting in more bleeding and matienace over a shorter time
- is not campadable with dot 3, 4 , or 5.1
+ has a higher boiling point then 3 or 4
- Dot 5.1 has a higher boiling point the all on market today and works with dot 3 , 4, 5.1
+ does not eat paint, 3, 4, and 5.1 does
- i heard that 5.0 can eat rubber gaskets resulting in high wear and more frequent rebuilds


this is what i have read about the subject... i picked 5.1 for all my street bikes except for the old ones that either run a cable or i run 4.0 in it 5.1 is only 2 bucks more money/ bottle u will need 1500 ml ( 3 bottles) to do all the VFR