advice on stuck or frozen ignition

Anyone have experience dealing with a stuck ignition? Temps are damn cold now, and I've bent the hell out of my key trying to turn the bike on. The first time it got really stuck was Friday morning, I was leaving around 5:45am and temps were below freezing the whole night. I wasted 5min bending my key until I went back inside and grabbed a heat gun and extension cord. Fired the gun around the ignition for about 45 seconds and then I was able to turn the key to ON (thumb starter was apparently already stuck so turning the key cranked the bike and had to manually pull back on the thumb starter).
Encountered the same issue around 5pm (day temps were below freezing), but this time no easy access to a heat gun. Wasted about 10min and bent my key back and forth. So I went back to the lab and grabbed a small 12v battery and a resistive heating element, and wrapped the heating element around the ignition switch for about 2min (those strips get really hot, rated at 60W, uncomfortable to touch). Seemed to do the trick, and I was on my way. And here is a picture of the 'tools' so far


Has anyone encountered this problem? And has anyone found a way to deal with it? This has to be the most annoying problem I've had. Never had this issue with my old bike. In the meantime, I'm carrying the small batt and 3 heating elements in a backpack, and keeping the heat gun near the front door.

In case water had seeped in from recent rains and was the culprit, I sprayed dry lubricant down the ignition today hoping it would displace what hasn't evaporated yet. I'm considering attaching a heating element around the ignition and running a connection from the battery I can plug/unplug when needed. Hoping one of you might have an easier solution.

 

I usually use LPS #1 spray lube on all the key switches, including the seat. It dries into a film, and doesn't hurt the electrics. Just a small amount seems to keep them working well.

Since I'm coastal Cali, freezing is rare, but I have been in Nevada in freezing or sub-freezing conditions for several days with no issues. Nevada is pretty arid, though.

 

Only after my frustration I googled and found some results suggesting a water displacement, like WD40 or the teflon dry lube. If only I had sprayed that stuff in before it rained ....

I hadn't heard of LPS before, but I just checked one of their data sheets. It lists an address on Hugh Howell Road in Tucker, GA. Used to go to a warehouse on hugh howell almost daily back when I was in high school.

 

If you have Ace Hardware or Orchard Supply hardware stores out there, they usually carry it. FWIW, the #2 is a pretty decent all around lube, and the #3 will protect rust-prone surfaces really well (although #3 leaves kind of a waxy residue that has to be cleaned off). Good product.

I believe you can apply the #1 to a wet component and have it be effective, although I wouldn't swear to it.

 

I think that just about any lock lube/deicer would take care of your issues with the ignition switch. Take your switch apart, clean it, give it a good lube, and put it back on. That should take care of it as well.

 

Shooting a squirt of LPS or WD-40 into ignition, tank and seat locks every 3 or 4 months should be routine maintenance

 

If it still freezes up, try heating the key with a lighter.

 

Good emergency advice...I've done this a few times myself. Living where I do frozen things are a fact of life.

Other than that, I've found lock deicer...available at any convience store around here...works pretty good. If I'm having problems with a lock I usually keep some where I can get at it.

 

Another reason a key won't turn can be a jammed fork lock on the ignition setup.

In that case it's necessary to take pressure off the locking pin by slightly turning the bars, and it helps to get the bike vertical, off the sidestand.

 

Thanks everyone, all comments appreciated.

I had a small lighter on hand, but it was useless with the wind conditions no matter how I tried to shield it (wind direction and intensity shifts oddly here, esp near the river).

I was hoping to avoid this, but I might have to clean the assembly. Since I don't have a garage and the bike is not usually covered, crap can wash down into it during periods of heavy rain. Water alone would eventually displace with the suggested chemicals, but water freezing dirt and stuff won't go away easily.

Not sure what you mean by a jammed fork lock, but I'm accustomed to jiggling the bars to get the key to turn when it seems stuck. The problem was when it was so cold that the key wouldn't turn no matter what I tried, except for heat.

I'll might try to clean out the switch soon since my low-beams have died as well. Haven't had the time, but should be able to during the holidays.

 

liquid graphite works well for freezing...I then slather the key with grease and insert it serveral times into the ignition and turn it on or off..

As squirrel said it should be routine maintenance

 

Have you tried lock de-icer? Most auto supply stores should have it in a small spray can with a tube that sticks into the lock like a WD-40 can has. It is basically methyl hydrate I think - same stuff as gas line anti-freeze. Once you flush the ignition switch out with this stuff, all the water should be forced out and hopefully you will be good to go. We know all about these kinds of things here in the Great White North!!:thumbsup:

 

The liquid graphite used in cables and locks is a product called Dri-Slide. Great product but I'm not sure if it should be used where electrical contacts are involved.

2 cents

 

+1

Plasma.