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85 VF500 jet kit?

Discussion in '1st & 2nd Generation 1983-1989' started by WGREGT, Dec 3, 2009.

  1. WGREGT

    WGREGT New Member

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    Anyone got a VF500 jet kit (springs, needles, clips, washers, new jets, directions/advice) they'd like to sell? I'm slowly working towards getting everything in line for the install of the aftermarket pipe here shortly and would prefer not to (although I am fully aware it is strictly against the group's explicit charter rules), pull the carb bank off yet again.

    Gasp!

    I've spoken to Jamie and know he likes/recommends the Factory kit. I've got the Dynojet kits on my other bikes. Right now I've got small washers under the factory needles (per Jamie's instructions) and thought I'd think about the larger jets now rather than go thru this again once I get the pipes on.

    Might not even NEED the jet kit at all, but thought I might start the process just in case.
     


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  2. TRX250R

    TRX250R New Member

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  3. invisible cities

    invisible cities New Member

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  4. TRX250R

    TRX250R New Member

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    Very true, not sure what you have to drill? :confused: The thing is, I worked as a machinest for a couple of years, and my father has been/is a machinest for 40 + years, so i'm sure I could figure it out.
     


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  5. tinkerinWstuff

    tinkerinWstuff Administrator Staff Member

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    I think it's the vacuum sliders to accomodate a larger needle? I know something gets drilled and there's a few guys here that can answer
     


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  6. WGREGT

    WGREGT New Member

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    Yeah, you drill out the hole to accommodate a bigger needle. All the dynojet one's I've owned did the same thing.

    Curiously, the Factory one that Jamie likes does not drill anything. Hmmm....easy to reverse if you decide to take it out/sell it/go back to stock.
     


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  7. matt1986vf500f

    matt1986vf500f New Member

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    dude just ge a factory pro jet kit no slide drilling alot better than that other crap out there i have a dynojet carb kit that need the carb slides drilled dude this kit is junk dont wast your money on it just go with the factory pro kit less hassle and a whole lot more smiles
     
    Last edited: Dec 3, 2009


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  8. WGREGT

    WGREGT New Member

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    Matt-
    Tell me about your bike set-up please. K&N? Full pipe? Slip-on?
     


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  9. squirrelman

    squirrelman Member

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    Actually the dynojet kit instructs you to use a drill bit ( which they supply) to simply enlarge ( by a very small amount) the existing hole on the bottom of the vaccum slide, which serves to regulate the rate at which the slide rises in response to vaccum.

    IT'S VERY easy to do since you only need to enlarge a hole ( in plastic) that's already there. But Jamie says not to, so there it is.

    Don't know where he gets his information, whether he read it somewhere on the interweb or did actual road tests on his bikes to determine the real-world effects?? I wouldn't dispute his opinion on the drilling, but would like to know the source of his wisdom, which directly contradicts Dynojet ??
     
    Last edited: Dec 5, 2009


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  10. invisible cities

    invisible cities New Member

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    power tools

    Sounds ghastly! Factory Pro seems like a much better option to me - why drill those pricey slides when you don't need to?
     


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  11. squirrelman

    squirrelman Member

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    I believe it would be permissible to fill any unwanted hole with JB Weld, and it would hold up fine cuz it's not submerged in gasoline......
     
    Last edited: Dec 3, 2009


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  12. matt1986vf500f

    matt1986vf500f New Member

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    sure wgregt, i started with a bone stock 86 500 that put down 29.9hp & 15lbs tq then add a hindle four into one header and mid pipe then purchased a two bros pipe of ebay for a yamaha R1 cut it down 6 inches, then changed the gearing to a 40 tooth rear stock front (stock gearing for the 86'es is 43/15) then purchased a k&n airfilter had a dynojet kit installed the bike performed really well but still lacks the punch that the liter bikes have, this winter mods are 85 carb swap (30mm to a 32mm and 112 main jets) and shedbolt cams or megacyle cams, hopefully this will net more power!! with the suspension i've swapped a CBR F2(150/60/17) rear wheel on it i purchased jamie daugherty wheel kit and sent him a F4 rear shock had a new weight matched spring installed braided steel brake lines f/r and a braided clutch line.. the bike has performed AWESOME!! for a 23 year old bike you could'nt ask for more, the current mods that are in the works are the revalved forks (need to install them this winter) CBR front wheel (120/60/17) cbr front rotors 954RR radiator fan, tail riser rear sets a bunch of stuff! alot to do over the winter. Hope this helps you wgregt




    http://vfrworld.com/forums/first-se...4-restoring-adding-modern-touch-86-vf500.html
     


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  13. WGREGT

    WGREGT New Member

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    Wha wha wha??!! I've had 10-speeds that had more than 30 hp! What is your hp when the other 2 cylinders kick in??

    I was thinking/told these things had 70 rwp or so, no?
     


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  14. matt1986vf500f

    matt1986vf500f New Member

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    there claimed 70hp yes, but the dyno doesnt lie im sure i would have got a higher number if the carbs where cleaned or so on but it is what it is. it doesnt take much power to move a low 400 pound machine
     


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  15. tinkerinWstuff

    tinkerinWstuff Administrator Staff Member

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    I had the same question. I'm eager to hear how it does with the cleaned carbs or the carb change and I'd like to know how it reads on a compression test.
     


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  16. squirrelman

    squirrelman Member

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    THAT'S right. With numbers that low there's something seriously wrong with the bike or the dyno.......or both.
     


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  17. WGREGT

    WGREGT New Member

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    Talked to the Factory folks. Their kit comes with 108 and 112 jets. They say the 112's are for me probably with pipe and K&N. From 90 to 112 seems like a huge jump in main jet size! $130 retail. Would like to get it for less if anyone here has a link or shop that is cheaper.
     


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  18. tinkerinWstuff

    tinkerinWstuff Administrator Staff Member

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    As far as the mainjets go, they're cheap. When I switched from 90's to 102's I got used ones from the local salvage yard for $4/pc. When the scrap carbs or do adjustments, they save the old ones in a tray just like your dealer has in the shop.

    I won't claim to be an expert when it comes to jetting... But it would be my best guess that if your bike is running well on #90s, you might go to 102s or 105s. That's a 10% change. I'm sure someone else here has actually made the same mods and can tell you what % carb adjustment they had to make.
     


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  19. invisible cities

    invisible cities New Member

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    F P

    The '84 was released with 102F/105R mains (went the 90's in '85) - so it's not too far a jump to FP's recommendation of using 108's all around for stock and 112's all around for modified but I would be curious to see how far you can actually take it.
     


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  20. WGREGT

    WGREGT New Member

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    You switched b/c...you added a pipe and/or a K&N? Or was it b/c it wasn't running as well as you thought it could stock? If your fotos are recent it looks like you are still stock?

    105's vs. the Factory rec'd of 112 is a fair amount of difference still. Rep said based on their extensive tech, with the set-up I have, use the 112s.

    Fine by me, but that still seems like a big jump from stock size. I'm just looking for the set-up that will keep me from removing & re-playing with the kit once I put it in.
     


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