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85 Vf500 idle/choke issues?

Discussion in '1st & 2nd Generation 1983-1989' started by WGREGT, Nov 30, 2009.

  1. tinkerinWstuff

    tinkerinWstuff Administrator Staff Member

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    I guess I wouldn't be completely surprised if there was a chance that not having your carbs properly balanced could be causing problems with the enrichment system. There's no doubt that it would cause issues, I guess I'm just not sure it would cause enough problems to not run.

    The enrichment system on these carbs works by pulling an enriched air/fuel mixture thru a series of (integrated) passageways on the carb. The vacuum needed for the system to work is created by the carb butterflys being closed. In theory, when you crack the throttle open, the enrichment system looses vacuum and fuel is drawn from a combination of the pilot system and the slow speed jet.

    If two or three of the throttle butterflies were too far open, then maybe, just maybe, there wouldn't be enough vacuum to draw from the choke/enrichment system.

    Sorry to be a doubter, but my favorite theory is still that something is plugging the choke fuel pickup tube. Until you've pulled it down and confirmed that you can blow air thru the passageways, I'll continue to think that's the first place to check. Again, you have to pull the carbs to fix the bowl leak so checking for cleared passages shouldn't be too much to ask. It wouldn't make sense to mess with choke cables or carb balancing if you need to pull the assembly anyway.

    P.S. While you're in there, take it from me and write down what slow speed and main jets are installed in that thing. Usefull information to have down the road.
     


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  2. WGREGT

    WGREGT New Member

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    OK. Starting carb tear down tonight. I assume, since it's bone stock, that the sizes are whatever Mr. Honda-san put in there in '85, but I'll check it against the service manual...
     


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  3. JamieDaugherty

    JamieDaugherty New Member

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    Don't be surprised or alarmed if it's not per the manual. There were some TSB's that required changing the main and/or pilot jets. Just because they are not stock does not necessarily indicate a problem.
     


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  4. matt1986vf500f

    matt1986vf500f New Member

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  5. WGREGT

    WGREGT New Member

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    Update:
    Turned tank back on. Started bike (while holding throttle...choke still won't work). Tapped float bowl with screwdriver handle. Still leaking. Dried it with towel, and saw it leaking between the float bowl and carb body on #1 cylinder. No choices left. Removed carb bank.

    Removed #1 float bowl. Saw gasket was cut in half in one place, and nearly cut through in another. Gasket is hardened and dry. Removed all float bowls. All other float bowls have intact, yet very flattened gaskets/o-rings.

    Sprayed carb cleaner down into each enrichner tube with straw. 3 of them did not back up on me when filling tube, but one did. After a few more sprays, none backed up on me. Might have been gunk in one.

    Heard/read that the o-rings/gaskets for the '85 v-4 magna (V30?) are the same size/shape as the 85 vf500. Both are 2mm x 73mm apparently. Bought some o-rings that size. They're cheap, and worth a try. If not, I'll go ahead and get the whole kit.

    Double checked upon disassembly: all 4 choke carb plungers are extending to the max. Choke cable was tight, and extending fully. Screw on cable holder arm was tight. Arm was moving full reach.

    After the bowls are tight, if it's NOT the enrichner tubes, I'm @ a loss on this one.

    I'll keep you all posted...
     


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  6. tinkerinWstuff

    tinkerinWstuff Administrator Staff Member

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    when you spray in the enricher tubes, you should work the choke plunger as well. Just because fluid doesn't backup when you spray it in doesn't mean the system is clear. As I recall, the inricher pickup tube crosses with the passage at the carb opening. Four orifices are all interconnected as part of the system; the enricher pickup tube, an orifice at the top of the carb accessed by removing the diaphram slider, and another passage behind the throttle butterfly. Again - if memory serves me right...
     


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  7. WGREGT

    WGREGT New Member

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    BTW, what a damn japanese jigsaw puzzle it is getting the bowls off, once the screws are removed.

    Also, it seems like the longest straight edge of the bowls, when it's on the carbs and viewed from above, curves inward a bit. IOW, the bowl edge and the carb body edge are not straight in a line together. Design flaw, I suppose.
     


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  8. WGREGT

    WGREGT New Member

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    Will do. Thanks for the tip. BTW, if this AIN't it, any other ideas while I have the carbs out?
     


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  9. WGREGT

    WGREGT New Member

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    Oh...since there isn't any way to tell if the enricher tubes are clean, you just blow cleaner, then air thru them, and call them done?
     


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  10. tinkerinWstuff

    tinkerinWstuff Administrator Staff Member

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    when you blow compressed air thru the enricher tube and work the choke lever, you will hear the airflow change. Feel or watch for flow out the different orifices. If you look on the side of the carb, you should be able to see the passagways in the casting and where they all lead to.

    When you are sure all 4 carbs are completely clear, the only thing left is proper adjustment of the cable linkage and carb vacuum balancing.
     


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  11. WGREGT

    WGREGT New Member

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    Cool. I've got the Motion Pro tuner stix all lined up & ready to go. And I'll feel for the air from the varying orifices. Haven't done that in quite a while.

    Are we still talking about bikes?
     
    Last edited: Dec 1, 2009


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  12. tinkerinWstuff

    tinkerinWstuff Administrator Staff Member

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    :biggrin:

    One of my airnozzles has a rubber tip on the end and seals really well when pushed up against the tube. So once the compressor has quit running, I can hear really well if air is going thru or if it's completely plugged along with being able to tell where the air is coming out from.

    You might have it all cleared out already - but if you put it all back together and have any issues, you'll be right back questioning whether a hole is blocked.
     


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  13. dizzy

    dizzy New Member

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    +1 to tinkerinWstuff's posts...he is right on the money.

    I also agree that the early shop manuals are not to be trusted in regards to jet numbers and locations (on the V4's). I've come across mistakes and info that is omitted or presented in a very confusing way. I usually try to find two legit sources that agree. I've also seen enough V4's with front and rear jetting turned around to realize it doesn't make a HUGE difference.

    Aside from the methods described for verifying those pesky starter jet circuits, I've used a method similar to what you did with a straw...only I use a clear hose, put it over the starter jet and fill it with carb cleaner. It should drain shortly, if it doesn't it's definitely plugged. It's also important to verify the air bleeds described by TWstuff. If everything is open, if you spray carb cleaner in any part of the circuit and hit it with compressed air, watch carefully and it should send a jet out all the other parts.

    The hole size of those starter jets is a bit bigger than the pilot jet. Since it's only used for starting the size isn't as crucial as the slows...naturally you wouldn't want to drill it out...but I think it's fair game to strip a wire, pull out a strand and run it through to help clean it. Just don't break it off in there.
     


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  14. WGREGT

    WGREGT New Member

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    I've got #90 main jets in all 4 carbs. I've got #35 pilot jets in all 4 carbs. The SM tells me #90 is correct for my 85 model, but I don't see a listing for the pilot jets. Does #35 sound right all the way across?

    Made another run with carb cleaner, working the choke bar, and then air. Getting a nice whistling sound from all 4 tubes now that sounds consistent. Gonna clean them once more when my o-rings go in. Probably tomorrow.
     


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  15. invisible cities

    invisible cities New Member

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    '85 carburetor specifications

    Sounds right.
     


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  16. tinkerinWstuff

    tinkerinWstuff Administrator Staff Member

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    I have #35 slow speed in mine. I had #90's in my 85 500 when I bought it and it was way too lean and caused surging issues. I don't recommend changing anything until you've had it on the road. It must have ran for someone with those #90's in it. But in my case, I went all the way up to 102's. Another difference is I have model 57B California carbs (extra vacuum ports for emission crap).

    If you come back in a month and say, hey my bike's surging and I don't get full RPM under load; we'll probably check a few things out and then tell ya to try larger mains. That's why I recommended you verify which jets are in it while you're poking around in there.

    sounds like things are pretty squared away with your enrichment circuit. How about the pilot circuit? It sounded like you were pretty happy with how the bike idled once it warmed up but I'm curious if that thing still has the tamper-proof caps installed covering the pilot screw adjustment?
     
    Last edited: Dec 2, 2009


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  17. WGREGT

    WGREGT New Member

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    Well, I'll be damned. You guys know your shite. Case in point: I re-read the answers here, and saw Dizzy's post about using clear tubing over the enricher tube to verify it being clean. I've got a bunch of clear tubing, so I just ran out in the garage and tried it.

    #1 & #2 carbs: Connected clear tube, filled it with a couple squirts of carb cleaner (doesn't take much to get an inch or more in the tube) and watched it slowly leave the tube. Awesome. Did this 2 or 3 times.

    #3 and #4 carbs: It fills and....stays. Doesn't go down at all. I worked the choke lever a bunch, and saw some very small bubbles from the #4 carb, and even a bit of trash/gunk floated up into the tube, but it didn't go down at all in either carb. So I let it sit and I'll see it that helps, then fire up the air again.

    Right when I was thinking I was home free. Damn you guys and your collective genius...
     


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  18. WGREGT

    WGREGT New Member

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    Well, I've put about 100 miles on it after the carbs were cleaned and before I figured out the choke lever wasn't working like it should. And I didn't have any issues when surging while driving (I'm guessing that's what you mean here).

    The tamper-proof caps were gone when I got the bike. I put new o-rings on the pilot screws when I was hoping that was the cause of it not idling at all when off choke when I got the bike. I had them @ 2.5 turns out, but recently went to 2.0 turns to see it that helped the choke lever situation.

    But yeah, after weeks of having it idle @ 2700 if at all, after I got them cleaned it started right up @ 1500 RPMs. A little touch of the idle screw put it right @ 1300.
     


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  19. crustyrider

    crustyrider New Member

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    its called collective physcosis....... because we are all mentally unstable our minds work in strange but magnificant ways.............
     


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  20. WGREGT

    WGREGT New Member

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    Glad you guys have room for one more then...
     


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