Fram oil filter for VFR.

Just discovered that I an purchase a Fram oil filter for my 87 700 at my local Advance Auto parts store. Hmmm...$4.65 there, or $12.99 at the stealership?

I'll go with the Fram. FYI, it's part # PH6010A.

Fram's catalog seems to have quite a few listed...at least for my bikes.

Link:
Honeywell Consumer Products Group - Product Info

 

+1 me also. finding a cheap but good filter is a plus.:thumbsup:

 

There's been some internet banter about Fram's quality. I have been using NAPA 1358 (WIX I believe -Your part number may vary ), still 1/2 price of the Honda up here. I think Purolater PureOne are rated high.

...I'm just sayin'

 

i have worked on cars all my life and fram filters are the cheap junk. if fram has a filter # cross it to a wix, hastings, etc. motors cost to much

 

I found this recently: Motorcycle Oil Filters & Air Filters

 

and the dissection of the same.... Motorcycle Oil Filter Comparison

 

I race dirt track here, and MANY MANY MANY times (and luckily i've never had this happen) engines are lost to something as simple as a FRAM filter. They tend to fail ALOT and have ruined alot of my friends' engines. All of us that run WIX or other top-line filters have never had a problem. I used to ALWAYS run FRAM on anything that I had, but after I started seeing filters collapse and blow engines, I'll never run another.

Just my 2cents worth :thumbsup:

 

Better off spending $6 on a Purolator filter.

 

so the overall consensus is that we should use the pure one filter then, right?

"Pure One
PL14610 $6 50*.39*2.36 92 Silicon Silicon A A This is how an oil filter should be made. The anti-drainback valve is double the thickness of any other here, and obviously seals very well. The media is the best available, and there's a lot of it. The bypass valve is made from a laser-cut piece of stainless steel, and just can't bind or jam."

 

and also that we should use the automobile variant - (About 3.5 inches long - fit reference 1994 Mazda MX-3, V-6 Engine) as opposed to the 2.5-3 inch motorcycle variant...

so then this is the number one filter:

Purolator Pure One L14620 about $6

feel free to add input as i am not an oil engineer and this is just info that i gathered in about 15 minutes of searching...

Oil Filter Alternatives - Honda Motorcycles

 

looks like im getting ready to trash my kn and pick up a pure one...
i had one in the 3.5 inch mazda mx3 v6 variant...
it fit fine, but i had also ditched my evap canister, which makes for much easier oil changes...

 

I used to use Fram filters when I started doing my own oil changes, but never touch them now. I always get something at least mid-grade.

 

I use the shorter PL14612 PureOne filter. The Boch(Champion) filters are also good. Also believe it or not the WalMart Supertech filter is a good filter and they are only $2.50-3.00.

There is an argument about using the PureOne filter. The argument is that it could have too much filter media and can produce excessive back pressure. If you are concerned, you can use the standard Purolator or the Supertech. Both have less media than the PureOne. I have considered both of these other options but have stuck with the PureOne for now.
I use the Mobil one 4t 10w-40 full synthetic oil. I can get both at advanced auto. The motorcycle oil is usually back in storage not on the shelves.

Others here swear by the Shell RotellaT syn. Shell has data on this oil and it shows only to have slightly higher ash content than JASO certified oil. Diesel oil additive packages very closely match the additive packages in motorcycle oils. With that available at WalMart and the Supertech filter you can get good protection for a low price. $20 give or take.

Good luck

 

extra filter media causing a flow restriction? do you mean that the filter media it has is too dense? extra media surface area is only going to make the filter flow better. especially after a couple thousand miles. thats the argument for using the 3.5 inch filters over the 2.5 inch ones...

 

Yes as in causing flow restriction. As in too much of a good thing. Too dense. The argument is from Purolator not me.

 

After reading all the various things, I looked at my service manual on CD for my 6th gen. It showed a bypass/ dump at the pump, and one just before the filter, and it also showed the pressure switch after the filter, so I removed the filter, installed a gauge, and tried various filters with the same viscosity oil, (Rotella T synthetic 5W-40)and waited until the temp at the filter housing was identical. They all showed between 67 and 71 psi at 6000 with oil temp about 175 and the coolant fan having cycled five times before the measurement. The only thing that's not possible to determine is whether the internal bypass had opened on any of the tested filters (Honda factory, Wal Mart long accura filter, Napa/wix, and Purolator long filter). BUT there was definitely very healthy factory spec pressure present.
So why the Rotella 5W-40? I live at 5800 feet in the Colorado Mountains, and when it's not too snowy and icy to ride, temps below 10F are not at all unusual in the morning, and getting it to idle right after start-up with 10-40 can be a five minute "sit there and nurse it" issue.
Thought you might find this useful in making decisions.