I have a 2007 25th Anniversary (red/white/blue) VFR that has just taken a turn for the worse. A few weeks ago I started noticing a slight engine hiccup every now and then at part throttle. I parked the bike for a few weeks and then fired it up today for a 20 mile ride. While the bike starts and idles fine, when I get the revs around 5,600 rpm the engine starts breaking up big-time. It's not a backfire of any sort, more like a rapid on/off cut-out as you try to increase revs. If I sneak up on the cut-out rpm it is less violent than if I go WOT. If I am stopped with the clutch in and rev the engine, it will go to about 6,500 rpm before crapping out. While it could be a fuel issue (injector problem and/or electric fuel pump problem), the cut-out seems to be occurring quicker/faster than is normally experienced with a fuel delivery issue. Thus, I think it is an electrical issue. Interestingly, as I rode the bike it seemed to slowly heal itself (to some degree) as when I started the ride I could not go over 5,500 rpm ... but by the end of the 40 minute ride I can go to about 6,100 rpm. Any idea what it could be? Ideas: 1. malfunctioning throttle position sensor 2. some rev-limiter issue 3. a general electrical gremlin 4. a short with the on/off switch 5. an ECU short 6. a problem with the fuel injector harness 7. water in some connector, wiring harness, etc. 8. water in the intake system (air filter box, air filter, or such) 9. does a 2007 Interceptor have a mass air flow meter? If so, maybe the hot wire is screwed up (this once happened to a Buick GN that I owned and the car ran like crap and wouldn't rev) Are there any factory Honda mechanics out there who can shed some light on this bad situation? Anybody else ever experience this with their VFR. Oh, also ... a few months back the VFR's stator crapped out and was replaced under warranty. Any chance that something got fried and/or screwed up in the process? Help! John
You could try a ECU reset by leaving the battery disconnected for awhile, not sure if your VFR stores info but some ECUs do and then they learn again.
TOE CUTTER, Short of hooking up a scanner tool, is there an easy way to determine if a code is showing? Looking at the gauges ... I don't see any funky lights on or such.
From what I have read, you need to short the ecu diagnostic connector and then the FI light will blink your code. That was for earlier 6 gens tho. I will post if I find it.
Section 5-7 & 8 of the service manual covers FI diagnostics with location of FI test plug and how to jump it. If you need more pages or additional info from the manual let me know and I will email them to you. Pictures of pages are below:
Did you check for codes yet? Did you inspect the wiring near the stator wiring and check that a connection is not loose from previous repair?
Could it be the spool valve not working proplerly you did say it was at higher RPM's, what happens at high RPM's the Spool Valve opens. Parked outside or inside? Why did the Stator Crap out? What was it doing to go bad? Also like TC said is it flashing codes?
oh whell, When you say spool valve, do you mean the assembly that controls the activation of the VTEC system? If so, I recall that VTEC hits at a later rpm (not where my problem is ... around 6,000 rpm) so I wouldn't think that it would be an issue at this point. Also, for what it's worth I just checked the back two spark plugs and they look fine. Noted below is an entry that I made on a similar post on this site. Any help would be appreciated. John ++++++++++ OK, here's the update. Per numerous VFR's suggestions, I first started by checking for a blinking FI light ... all seems fine. I just performed the following: 1. Removed seat and gas tank, then checked all visible wires/connections. All seems fine. 2. Checked the tightness of/connection of the battery wires. All seems fine. 3. Checked the connection of the spark plug wire setups. All seems fine. 4. Removed the air cleaner lid to check/inspect air filter and airbox. All seems fine (no dirt, water, oil, etc.). While off, I blew out the air filter, wiped down all aspects of the airbox, removed the carburetor inlet trumpets (checked, cleaned), and removed the entire airbox assembly from the carbs. All seems fine. 5. Inspected, cleaned/wiped the carb inlets, throttle blades, etc. Verified proper/full opening of carbs at WOT. All seems fine. 6. General look-over of everything. Nothing seems loose, cut, melted, pinched, etc. All looks fine. 7. Fuel tank has plenty of gas and visual inspection doesn't show signs of any water or oil in gas. 8. I tried to check the wires that go to/from the stator ... however, without removing the factory cowling/bodywork its hard to see. Any suggestions from here? Should I investigate the possibility of a plugged/broken fuel filter? Any advice? I'm wondering if I should replace the spark plugs since they are (somewhat) easily accessible at this point ... as the fuel tank, seat, intake box, etc. are removed? Also, although completely unrelated, is there any performance advantage (or disadvantage) to removing the factory rubber inlet boot that hooks to the top of the airbox? Any advantage/disadvantage to disconnecting and/or removing the flapper door assembly on the top section of the airbox? Any advice would be appreciated.
Go with most likely , remove lower cowling and inspect the wiring, check the plugs and the wires in the area of repair. Could be a very simple problem so look closely at all.
Short of pulling off the front cowl to check/inspect the wire(s) going to the stator, I've done about all the checking that I can do ... including checking two of the four spark plugs. Everything appears to be fine. Then I reassembled everything, started the bike, let it warm up, revved the engine a bit and .... it still continues to crap out. The only other thing that I can think of is that one or more of the spark plug coil packs is on the fritz. This is starting to get irritating.
