A couple of questions.

Hello everyone. I have been a lurker here for some time, and I have a couple of questions for the all-knowing VFR enthusiast on this site. First of all, I own an 07 RWB. Yesterday, I did the following mods: 02 eliminators, flapper door, and snorkel. Without a doubt, the lower end of the bikes power band is much better off, with much better throttle response, and it sure is a whole lot smoother. This will really help with those Total Control type of classes! My first question is: how do we know that the fuel/air mix is being regulated properly, with the O2 sensors disconnected? Is the ECU sending full lean, or full rich, or what? Has anyone figured out where 330 ohms puts the mix? The flapper door and the snorkel mods are pretty much no-brainers, IMO. But, I take this bike to the track three or four times a year, and really want to know if the fuel mix is right, so I don't scorch a valve, while I am tickling the rev limiter! My next question is, how far up in the triple clamps are you guys running your forks to make the bike a bit more lively? Could someone be so kind as to give me a measurement from the top of the triple to the top of the tube, not including the cap?
Thanks.

 

Go to autoparts store and buy air/fuel gauge and hook it up to your 02 sensor you will see where you are running.
I have 19mm tail riser and forks raised about 3/8" and still stable and turns much faster now.

 

Is the air/fuel gauge an on-board mount, or a test while at home tool..... and do you test at idle, or different rpm's?

 

you can mount it and leave it on and you will get reading thru out the rpm range.
I use my 02 sensors for my chip so I do not leave it ( air / fuel ) mounted on bike, It was just to see how much the chip richened up the system.

 

Thanks for the replies. I think that I will ride the bike around this week, and pull a spark plug and have a look. That should give me an idea.

 

the 330 ohm resistors do not change your air/fuel ratio at all. what they do is just give a steady reading. 330ohms all the time no matter what conditions. the 330ohms is just an approximate resistance that the o2 sensors would be making, where the ecu would interpret that the bike's air/fuel ratio is already lean enough and leave it alone. basically with the o2 eliminators in the bike will just use the factory fuel map and not try to adjust it further leaning it out under certain light/steady throttle conditions like cruising idling etc.

the vfr800's o2 sensors are only narrow band sensors not wide band sensors that we are accustomed to in auto use. the narrow band sensors only read a small area of air/fuel conditions. they are not used in anything near wide open throttle situations, so don't worry about hurting your bike. they are only used when the throttle is held steady like idle and cruising. during these conditions they will tell the ecu if it can further lean the bike out to save gas and emissions. they are never used to richen the air fuel ratio, only to subtract a percentage of fuel from the map that was already established by Honda to be fit.

ps if you think the bike is smoother and better off now, it is ten fold better with a properly mapped power commander. i put a pc on my bike a few weeks ago and downloaded a map from vfrd. it was like light and day. super smooth throttle response, almost non existent vtec transition, and much stronger bottom end as well as some up top. but, nothing beets a custom map that was made for your bike by a dynojet supported tuner. even identical bikes with identical mods will need different maps. i down loaded a map for my year with the same mods and even though it performed great, when i did actually have a map made for my bike we found that the downloaded map was actually still way off. much better than the factory map, but still way off.