My 1998 VFR800 just up up and died on me yesterday

I'm new to VFRworld.com and I did do a search of the forums for my particular situation, but I didn't find it (yet).
I've had my VFR for a month and I've only ridden it a half dozen times or so.

I'm REALLY hoping you folks can help me figure this out.

OK, Here's the deal......
I was going about 40mph on a beautiful, sunny 80 degree day and the motor just quit.

Hitting the starter button does absolutely nothing...no start, no click, no buzz, no sizzle,


nothing, nada, zip. Before it died, there were no warning signs or strange things happening.

• It's a 1998 VFR800 with 32,000 miles.
• All lights, blinkers, & horn have power and work fine!
• No weird sounds, except for a faint click-clack immediately *after* it died.
• No leaking fluids.
• Tried a pop-start on level ground, but couldn't really get it going fast enough.
• Motor did spin when I tried the pop-start, so it's not seized up.
• Gas tank is at 3/4 full.
• Water temp was normal...somewhere around 150-175.
• Fan fuse was blown. Replaced it and bike still won't start.
• Charging system was checked by Honda dealer 3 weeks ago & passed A-ok.
• Battery is bad & does need replacing, but I don't think that would kill a running bike with a good charging system...would it?

And this was right in the middle of a March of Dimes, Bikers for Babies ride too!!

I've read a few forum posts about rectifiers/regulators going bad and killing all power instantly. I've also read about stators going bad and draining the battery. My battery does need replacing, for sure, but the charging system was just checked a few weeks ago during the local Honda dealer's "General Inspection" ($80). That's when they told me that the battery needed replacing. I was going to replace it right after the ride too.

The only other thing I can think of is that the bike doesn't make the usual whirring sound when the key is turned from OFF to ON. The sound only lasts for a second, but it happens every time the key is turned from OFF to ON. When the noise stops, the "FI" light on the instrument cluster turns off, so I think that the noise is the fuel injection system powering up. Probably the pump itself. Anyway, the bike isn't making that noise any more but all the fuses are fine. Maybe there's a relay or secondary fuse somewhere that I haven't found?

I'm hoping it's the battery or at least something I can diagnose and fix myself. If not, then it's off to the dealer's and their RIDICULOUSLY high hourly labor charge.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
UPDATE 03/26/11: Well, a new battery did the trick, back in 2009. BUT, that new battery went bad a little over 1 year later! The dealership tested it & it was defective. So, now I'm on the 3rd battery in 3 years!! Who knows what exactly is going on here. I'll keep you posted.

 

Kinda sounds like all the symptoms of a dead R/R. I can't speak from personal experience as I have only read about it. Others will chime in soon on the issue.

 

Battery

You need to repalce the battery before you can go further.Beating a dead horse to attempt to trouble shoot an electrical system with a dead battery.

 

Like toe cutter is saying replace the battery, it has to be done anyway.

In the meantime you can bump start it by putting the bike in SECOND gear, IMPORTANT. Don't try it in 1st gear, it won't work. Pull the clutch and get the bike going at a semi-running pace and pop the clutch it should start. if it does that means you got a dead battery.

Now, it sounds like the dreaded R/R problem that VFRs are notorious for. What I recommend is replacing the R/R and get the VFRNess from wiremybike.com while you're at it to prevent this from happening in the first place.

 

I think you need to check this link on the wiki

Blown fuses, Battery not charging, Dies on road, Dash lights out? - VFRwiki

If you follow the links you should find out what has happened and what you need to sort it. Certainly if the battery is dead then you will need to start with a new one. But it looks like you have joined the 20% of 5th Gen owneres who have had their RR die.

Good luck and let us know how you get on.

Skimad4x4
6th Gen Militia # 218

 

It sounds like you may have blown your main fuse as a result of a bad R/R. Check the fuse, you should hear the FI system when you turn the key.

 

Get a new battery, and don't ride your VFR in anymore of those slow moving group rides.... Your bike does not like heat(r/r)........

 

Totally agree.
When I go pick it up on Tuesday, I'll bring a new battery with me and install it on the spot.
Thanks TOE CUTTER

 

Thank you for the link to wiremybike.com; their products & prices look first-rate. The VFRness ($70) is a must-have and the R/R ($115) is a no-brainer for sure. Should I go ahead and get the stator ($130) now because I'll need a new one soon anyway or should I hold off until I'm sure I need one?

Hope to hear from you soon.

Many thanks, JOEY_DUDE!

 

I followed the link and the info there was quite good.
Especially the pictures of an Electrosport R/R sitting right next to an OEM R/R.
What a huge difference in both heat sink fins and wire thickness!
The OEM one looked cheap & puny, by comparison.
Many thanks, SKIMAD4X4.

 

don't worry Obamcare will cover it with no prexhisting conditions................

 

Only way to answer that question is to run some diagnostics with a multimeter. If you don't have the service manual you can download it from this thread: http://vfrworld.com/forums/parts-service-manuals/3161-downloadable-parts-catalogs-service-manuals.html

In the service manual there's an electrical system chapter that will show you how to diagnose the stator. With a multimeter what you can do is follow the instructions and it'll tell you if you need one or not. :thumbsup:

 

Ugh, you make a really, really good point there. I had assumed that the 30 amp fuse I found right next to the fuse block WAS the main fuse. I didn't check the manual to make sure it was.

I didn't check partly because everything else was lit/working except the starter and possibly the FI system...and also partly because the Designated Rescue Trailer was already on its way to pick me up. Luckily I broke down right next to one of the charity's rolling staff members, so the Rescue Trailer was called right away.

Anyway, I'll definitely check the manual as soon as I pick up the bike tomorrow.

Many thanks, NVOGES!

 

One of the main reasons that the R/Rs go,(besides being cheap) is a low battery. They overheat due to the excessive load put on them trying to compensate for the weak battery state. If you had changed the battery earlier, it may have been still working fine.

I would hold off on getting the stator, until you know that you need one. You would be better off spending the money on a second R/R.

 

Every time I've been caught in bumper-to-bumper traffic, waiting to go at a single-lane construction area, or even just riding very slowly through event grounds or whatever, I have problems with the battery. It discharges, and the bike runs fine, but I have to bump start it after every stop, I charge it over night, then all is right with the world the next day and thereafter, until the next time I get caught in a slow speed situation.

I'm tired of this. I do have a VFRness installed, I'm installing a new battery today (the existing one is getting pretty old), I'll put in my new R/R I've been carrying as a spare and then use the old one as a spare instead, and I'll clean all the connectors, etc. If this doesn't cure the problem, I'm getting a Street Triple R or a Ducati (just kidding).

 

Yup, pretty much guarantee that's a R/R issue. I see a new R/R and VFRness in your future.

 

Mine did that to me last year. I would be riding and they engine would just quit but all of the lights worked. I found some wires that came lose and were shorting out the main fuse. Taped them up, put in a new fuse and it was fine.

 

You have to remember that the alt doesn't start to put out a good charge before ~1100RPM. Every bike seems to differ slightly on the exact RPM, but it wouldn't hurt to raise the idle if needed. I'm not sure what the drain of the fan is, but it usually kicks in when stuck in traffic, which will compound the problem. Of course a good battery is a must and unless you like breaking down, not the place to pinch pennies.

:crazy:

 

That link is pure gold!
I downloaded both the Service Manual and the Parts List files.
I'll get started on this problem Tuesday night.

Many, many thanks JOEY_DUDE !!!