Changing front springs

OK, so the previous owner put in Race Tech .95's but they are too stiff for me. Is it possible to remove the springs while the forks are on the bike? Install new ones and then top up the oil. I was thinking of using a magnet fisher to pull the spring out. Will this work or have I been smoking to much crack!:thumbsup:

 

I just got done putting them in mine, & I dont see why you could not just pull the caps off & yank them out.

Bob

 

yes you can pull the caps off and do it on bike butttttttttttttttttttttttt, I would really reconsider just going with lighter oil then doing that a stiff front is a good thing maybe you can click down the compresion a few turns and try that.... good luck.

 

CAUTION:


Bike must be up on centerstand and front end blocked up so that front wheel is off the ground before opening fork caps.......

 

I am looking at changing springs tonight too and had some followup questions.

Once the fork cap is unscrewed (watch out, it's spring loaded), is it attached to anything like a dampener rod. If it is, once I disconnect, doesn't the dampener rod desend into the fork? How do I get it back out once the new springs are in place?

Am I right? Or am I smoking crack.

TIA

CD

 

Or your bike will come off the center stand as the front end dives towards earth and if you dont have a rear shock in the rear will plow with her and you end up looking like you own a VFR Drag bike...... at least this is what I have heard.... I take the 5th ...:wink:

 

Long needle nose pliers work for me.

 

Back the pre-load all the way off first. To reduce pressure on the threads.

 

This operation is really easier than you think. First, get the springs you want (Personally, I'm a fan of Hyperpro progressive springs).

OK. Set the bike up on the center stand. If you want to make life easier
remove your windshield. Otherwise, cover your tank to protect it.
Find some convenient weight to put on the seat (or rear rack if you have one). Loosen *one* fork cap, and unthread it fully. It won't fly off, it's also threaded onto the cartridge rod. When its fully unthreaded from the fork, you'll need two 12mm wrenches to loosen the cap from the nut on the cartridge rod. Now - find a piece of tubing (rubber, plastic) with an ID
of about 3/8-1/2" and 12" long. Unthread the cap fully and force the tubing onto the cartridge rod - bingo - easy retrieval.
Now get a couple of rags and withdraw the spring out (there may be a spacer and washer first if stock springs) hold the rag to catch the oil as the spring comes out. Put it out of your way. Install the new spring by feeding it over the tubing. Pull the tubing up, thread it into the cap (did you install the washer and spacer?). Tighten the cap to the nut. HARD PART: using a socket and ratchet, press down on the cap to engage in the threads - TURN CAREFULLY!! Make sure you don't cross-thread the cap (aluminum) into the fork tube (steel) - it should turn fairly easily all the way down to seat.
Repeat for other side.

I've left out stuff about fork oil because that wasn't part of the original question BUT - to properly check fork oil level you'd have to remove the front wheel to collapse the fork you're working on to measure the oil height in the fork while the spring was out. And to change the fork oil you have to remove the fork entirely.