Hi guys,just did the o2 elimination on my 06 model, followed the instructions from the other threads but my FIlight is staying on, what am i doing wrong?
I just did this yesterday as well and had no trouble. Used the 330 ohm, 1/2 watt resistors from Radio Shack. Check the following with your install: Make sure you've bridged the correct two wires with the resistor. See the picture below (which I got off VFRD). Basically you need to bridge the two leads that are opposite the locking tab thingy Make sure that your resisor legs are making good contact in the terminals of the connector. When I did my wife's bike yesterday I found that there's some space behind the terminal that's easy to push into (but won't give a good connection at all -- I labeled this "Not Here" in the picture) and then space between the blades of the terminal that does give a good connection (I labeled "Here" in the picture. I also doubled the legs over on the resistors to make them wider to make sure they contacted the terminal inside the plug. The terminal has the typical female blade terminal shape and therefore a round wire stuck into may not make good contact. See the small resistor graphic I drew below for an idea of how I bent my resistor legs. Hope this helps.
No Luck Thanks for your help motocache1, did everything by the diagram, even soldered resistors to copper sleeves to get good connection, tried all possible combinations but FI light stays on. Dont know if Australian model is different to US version or ive bought the only vfr this mod wont work on, but its driving me mad.
if you are possitive that the resistors are placed correctly, try reseting the ecu. disconect the battery, turn the ignition key on. wait a few minutes to be sure all current is drained. connect the battery up again and see if your FI light is still on... as a side note, i have had an FI light triggered on the bike before. it turned out to be that the temperature sensor(IAT) located inside the air box was disconnected. just try going over all things related to the fuel injection... making sure that all sensors are satisfactory.
Thanks CandyRed, tried your suggestion, FI light stays on, if i take the resistors out and plug sensors back in FI light goes out as normal. Back to the drawing board.
If you have a digital camera handy, take a picture of your connectors with the resistors installed. That will let us be a second set of eyes and verify everything. We'll be able to see the resistor color codes (they should look like the drawing I did above, orange, orange, brown, and then the 4th band color doesn't really matter). It will also let us see which terminals you've plugged into, etc. I was going to ask if maybe you had accidentally hit the kill switch on the right handgrip. I've done that accidentally now and again and of course the FI light stays on if that switch is tripped. But you said it works correctly with the O2 sensors plugged in, so that rules that out. Post a pic if you can.
FI light Having a problem with my bike throwing FI light on solid when hot.Only does it when in traffic for long periods of time and will go out as soon as it cools off. Assume it is the O2 resistor out of range when heated. Bike runs just fine and I have another brand of resistors I will try this week.Anyone else have this problem?
Hi guys, finally managed to get hold of 1/4 watt resistors, could only get 1/2 watt before, i'll stick those in tonight and see if that makes any difference. Thanks for your replies.
The change from 1/2 watt to 1/4 watt won't make any difference unless you end up plugging the new ones in differently than the old ones were, or something else that was wrong before is different this time (in which case it will seem like the change to 1/4 watt fixed it). Most of the folks here are using 1/2 watt because that's the size Radio Shack carries in the 330 ohm. In some ways the 1/2 watt are actually better because the "legs" are a larger diameter and make better contact in the connector. You said you soldered copper tabs to the legs of your resistors before. Depending on your finesse with a soldering iron, that could have burnt up one or both resistors. If you have an ohm meter, check the resistance of your 1/2 watt resistors that you put the tabs on (if you still have them). It's possible one of them is "open". Let us know how it goes.
Hi guys, had work committments for a couple of days, just stuck 1/4 watt resistors in tonight and hey presto, they worked!. Have no idea why 1/2 watt 330 ohm didnt work but i tried them again after 1/4 watt with no result, will run them and see how they hold up. Next project will be staintune pipes, ill let you know how they go. Thanks to everyone for your help and patience.
Just go into the shop manual and there is a way to reset the computer that should get rid you of your old code. There is a picture that shows a jumper wire that gets placed within a small square wire connector that is located under the seat. I will try to find the page number at lunch time.
Glad it's working now. Of course the engineer in me is dying to know what the actual issue was. If you have an ohm meter and still have the 1/2 watt 330 ohm resistors you soldered the tabs to, I'd love to know what the resistance on them reads. This will be gnawing at the back of my brain...
I picked up the resistors this weekend...just trying to decide whether to throw them in now or wait for the next oil change...which will be around 1k miles more or roughly 2 weeks for me.
if you are going to have to take the left fairing of in two weeks to do the oil anyways, i would just wait till then and do them both at the same time to avoid the extra wear and tear on the clips & tabs also the chance that the fairing could be scratched... 500 miles a week...? jeeze whats up with that? 50 mile comute to work everyday?
if I do 500 miles a week, i will have dropped my mileage from the last two weeks....I got the bike a little over 2 weeks ago and have 1300 miles on it now. The more I read about the resistor mod, the more I question whether I should do it or not. Seems like some people have good results and some do not.
I think whether or not it is helpful depends on why you're doing it. In the case of my wife's bike (which I did the resistor mod to) her bike had an aftermarket exhaust and muffler and the aftermarket exhaust had no place for the oxygen sensors. Whomever installed the exhaust must not have known about the O2 eliminators or the resistor mod because we found the O2 sensor zip tied up inside the fairing. Since they were constantly reading ambient air oxygen levels I'm guessing they were making the bike run waaaay too rich. Removed the O2 sensors and did the resistor mod and the bike seems much more responsive and stronger in the low revs. Never calculated gas mileage on it before (or after) the mod, but I bet the gas mileage has improved too.
Im doing it for the common 4.5-5.5 surging that my bike seems to have....its very noticeable in the bottom three gears when trying to hold a steady speed.
you couldn't pay me to plug my o2 sensors back in! i got good results from it. the main thing it cured is that i can actually hold a steady speed in any gear and at any rpm that i want to. like every bike should be able to do. but for best results a power commander should be used as step # 2...
