Amsoil oil is the best oil period!!! Please read

Derstruka how much is that redline stuff compared to armsoil?

i switched last yr to synthetic (armsoil) and found i didn't have to add any oil between changes compared to good quality dino oil. and i now change oil like the manual says. i hate taking all that crap off to change oil id rather be riding. regular dino oil got changed every 3-4k miles doing double that with synthetic. if its not too much more i might try that redline

 

I would like to nominate RedRover as the self-appointed judge of vfrworld.

 

Just my $.02, I HAD Amsoil in my 03 chev silverado and ended up with a serious sludge problem, my wrench(good friend) gave me hell and said to get rid of it. I'm religious about oil changes and now my motor sounds like a bloody diesel. I will not be using that crap again, now like I said that's just my opinion, if others are happy with it , great.
That being said , I was thinking about using Bel Ray in my 07 after it breaks in, anyone have any experience there ?

 

AMSOIL circa 1972
Red Line oil circa 1979
My brother turned me on to AMSOIL in the late 70's ('78 I think) for bikes. We used to ride Penton, Hodaka, Bultaco, all the strange extinct dirt toys. I've used lots of oil in my stuff, cars and bikes. 90+% of my cars have been / are turbocharged. I have used AMSOIL in all of them. My bikes have also had a pretty steady diet of it as well. I have used other oils both synthetic and conventional. AMSOIL has always been the top performer for me. Just my .02....

on edit:
Forgot about the 850 Commando, and the Bonnie, all before I was 16...Bro was a cool dude..

 

FWIW I've used nothing but Castrol motor oils in my bikes since I've started riding about 45 years ago. I've never had an oil related problem with any of my bikes. It's true that I've not had many that I didn't sell before they had 50,000 miles on them, but we are talking roughly 25 bikes. Okay, I didn't use Castrol in my two-stroke dirt bikes/street bikes. :smile: I switched from Castrol GTX to Syntec about 10 years ago and have been very happy with it. Just another data point.

 

Everybody's got something to say about which oil they think is best, which is fine. The one thing no one seems to mention here is that whether it's MOTORCYCLE SPECIFIC or not. With that being said does you're F150, Camaro or Tacoma rev to 12,000rpm? Is the transmission lubricated with the same oil? Whether it be dino oil or synthetic I won't use anything but motorcycle or atv specific oil. I use full synthetic on all my bikes as soon as they're broken in. I also change it pretty often 2500-3500mi. If i notice any increase in shift lever effort i immediately check my oil. I've tried many brands over the years and have pretty much settled on Castrol R4 5w-40. Not everyone can afford to use synthetic MOTORCYCLE oil. I can certainly understand that. But if you can why wouldn't you?? The protection is unsurpassed. And BTW i wouldn't give you .2 for Amsoil.

 

As if my last post wasn't enough. I remember someone (perhaps in another forum) mentioning he was using Shell Rotella Synthetic. WTF? Here is what Shell says about that particular product; Recommended for new and older Diesel and gasoline powered vehicles including personal vehicles and commercial vehicles such as on-road, off -road, truck rental, pick-ups, delivery, utility and school bus fleets. Yeah, I'm gonna run right out and get some for my VFR. MOTORCYCLE OIL MY FRIENDS, PLEASE!

 

Online source for Red Line motorcycle oils

Motorcycle Oil - Red Line Oil 10W40 Motorcycle Oil

Red Line's web site: http://www.redlineoil.com/why_redline.asp

 

I ran my '82 Sabre (V45) for 55,000 and 14 years on Castrol GTX 20w-50 (non-sythetic), changed regularly (3,000 mi.) w/ a filter every time. I did the valves myself (back in the days of 4,000 mi. service intervals) and got a close look at the cams and lifters. Clean, smooth, no rust or sludge. The engine ran strong, no smoke, never had to add between changes. I've owned 3 other bikes, and all are treated the same, with the same results. There may be better oils, but unless you go past 3,000 miles on changes, or operate the bike under extreme or adverse conditions, you'll probably never see the benefit.

 

i love oil threads..

i use honda gn4 but i have used belray, spectro, mobil1 ,silkolene,maxima,pensoil; I figure if honda made my bike and they say use honda oil im ok with that. I never have hear of anyone haveing engine issues becuase of the oil they used. Just change it when neccessary and you will be fine.. i change each year or 2k miles what comes first good luck..but the best oil is baby oil on a round but..:thumbsup:

 

Ive just posted a reply but it hasnt come up so please forgive me for this little reply test.

 

Ive already written a reply so im not going to do the whole thing again so this will be the very very short version. fastest Honda drag bike in the US uses Honda oil after extensive research and cost with labs and dynos. If you want a good car oil use Neo worlds best synthic in F1 racing and high out put engines, syn oil is more stable under high heat. If you want to think outside the box think Bi-Tron yes it works and extremely well, run it at 10% of crankcase capacity. In general use bike oils as they are designed for bikes but also the most important thing is the falex rating which is hard to find out if you use Bi-Tron with a good base oil your falex rating will be high as hell so your in the safe zone and you wont need oil changes as often, changing your oil after short mileage means nothing if the oil falex rating is below par. if you have a new bike dont use syn for the first 1000km as the engine wont break in as well, if you want best break in secrets.
-=MototuneUSA Motorcycle Performance Roadracing Superbikes & Wild Girls sign up and they will email you the details, it will surprise you, not everybody will agree. my vote for 2010 vfr 1000 V5 in sports/tourering mode.

 

Kendall GT-1 20w-50 anyone?

 

I usually stay out of oil threads but its a slow night so what the hell. I'll try and keep my reply PC so I don't get judged harshly by Redrover. In answer to rc24rc51's WTF, the same qualities that make Rotella Synth a good diesel oil allow it to work well in a motorcycle. Due to the high compression and high internal torque loads encountered in a diesel engine, the long chain molecules that allow multi viscosity are engineered to resist shearing. Does this sound like it might be beneficial in a motorcycle transmission? I tend to trust the results seen in oil samples that people have sent in to have burned rather than sponsored tests. It may interest you to know that Rotella is also JASO MA equivalent (that means its wet clutch safe). Some links that may help in clearing up that WTF -

Results from a forum member

Rotella motorcycle forum

Fireblade forum

You can google up more if you wish.

I would suggest a little research but I realize that some effort is involved there, kind of like using a search function.

Action

 

LMAO. Gotta watch out for Redrover...he'll beat the hell out of your knuckles with a ruler like an angry nun in a Catholic school.


J/K Redrover!



Btw, it's amazing what a little research does!:thumbsup:

 

I haven't had motorcycles in general, or my VFR in particular for very long but I've always had good luck with Mobil1 in any of the performance vehicles I have owned over the years so that's what I'm puttin' in it tomorrow. It also has the advantage of being readily available at nearly any auto parts store, and i like that over some of the more exotic oils- though if you find yourself suddenly needing to add oil out on the road somewhere you failed your pre-ride inspection pretty badly.

On a somewhat related tangent, my wife went to buy me a filter and oil last week when she was out. I told her exactly what I wanted, and the idiots at Cycle Gear tried to sell her Castrol something or the other, in 10w-50 tell in her it was all exactly the same. When she called me and I made her return it because I want the manufacturer's recommended weight oil she talked to a different dude who then grabbed her the proper Mobil 1 product she asked for- basically the first dude saw there was only 1 quart on the shelf, and rather than go in back and get another 3 he just tried to sell her some other stuff. News flash- when a customer asks for a very specific product, that you carry, and have in stock- WTF wouldn't you just sell her that? This is certainly not meant as a condemnation of Cycle Gear, just the freaking lazy idiot my wife dealt with. Anyway, that ends my rant.

 

Viscosity. Do you know what this number represents? Do you know that the 10w-50 oil that they tried to sell you was in all simplicity just a notch better viscosity tolerance and probably more expensive. The "proper" oil suggested by honda 10w-40 is the same viscosity oil that 98% of vehicles made before the year 2000 also suggest...

Okay, so anyway... I would put something 10w-50, 20w-50, 20w-60 just because this bike will never be operated at below 30 degrees and I have heard that vfrs run very hot. Don't want the oil to get too runny.

Does this make any sense to anybody else?

 

I bought my 5th Generation in January of 2008, Shooter. My (Honda) dealer had changed the oil, using Bel Ray, and that's what I've used ever since then.

No problems to date, knock wood.

 

I do in fact know what this number means. Oil weight, or viscosity, refers to how thick or thin the oil is. The temperature requirements set for oil by the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) is 0 degrees F (low) and 210 degrees F (high).

Oils meeting the SAE's low temperature requirements have a "W" after the viscosity rating (example: 10W), and oils that meet the high ratings have no letter (example SAE 30). An oil is rated for viscosity by heating it to a specified temperature, and then allowing it to flow out of a specifically sized hole. Its viscosity rating is determined by the length of time it takes to flow out of the hole. If it flows quickly, it gets a low rating. If it flows slowly, it gets a high rating.

Engines need oil that is thin enough for cold starts, and thick enough when the engine is hot. Since oil gets thinner when heated, and thicker when cooled, most of us use what are called multi-grade, or multi-viscosity oils. These oils meet SAE specifications for the low temperature requirements of a light oil and the high temperature requirements of a heavy oil. You will hear them referred to as multi-viscosity, all-season and all-weather oils. An example is a 10W-30 which is commonly found in stores. When choosing oil, always follow the manufacturer's recommendation.
I figure the engineers at Honda know a lot more than the Cycle Gear guy does about my bike and if they were "exactly the same" they wouldn't be labeled with different viscosities

 

http://www.autoeducation.com/autoshop101/oil-change.htm

Your right. It is not the same oil, its a bit better. The fact that Honda has built this engine and specs 10w-40 as the "norm" is not something you MUST follow. Even in the handbook there is a chart to follow if you live in warm or cold climate. And having an oil that also performs in extremely high temperature is not a bad idea. The only really important thing about oil is the API class that must be matched or exceeded.

I chose to go for performance oil with multi-viscosity of 20w-50 because I know I will not start the engine if it is near freezing out, and I want the confidence that the oil will also perform under extreme conditions e.g on the racetrack. I could have gone with 5w-50 but found this to be pointless since this is not a snowmobile...

This is only my opinion and as just as useless as the next guys. As someone stated; opinion are like assholes, we all got one.