'86 VF500 crankcase oil seal replacement

Discussion in '1st & 2nd Generation 1983-1989' started by droopydawg, Apr 5, 2009.

  1. droopydawg

    droopydawg New Member

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    My oil seal, on the left side, where the clutch push rod enters the case leaks. Not just a drip, but a stream of oil. I got the old one out, destroying it in the process, not realizing there was a 'lip', and that replacing this seal requires the case to be split. Do I REALLY have to split the case, to replace this, or can I just remove the bolts that hold the cases together and separate the case, just enough, so that I can fit this new seal in there? I am not afraid of doing it, splitting the case, it is just that for a $3 oil seal, that sure is a lot of work on a bike with only 12,000 miles on it.
    Thx
     


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  2. slippy

    slippy New Member

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    Honestly the easiest way to do it is take a Dremel or something similar and grind away that lip. It's a tight fit in there - it's not going anywhere. I did that with mine about 6 months ago and haven't seen a drip and I know I'm not the only one - I got the idea from other guys on the board.
     


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  3. JamieDaugherty

    JamieDaugherty New Member

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    A caution - going this route has been known to be only a temporary fix. In fact, I'm surprised that you haven't seen any leaks yet slippy. Doing this method normally results in leaks again within a year. It's worth a try because even if you get a season or so out of it before it starts to leak again then it's money/time well spent.
     


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  4. droopydawg

    droopydawg New Member

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    Thanks. I'll give it a shot.
     


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  5. slippy

    slippy New Member

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    Yea, what JD said. I guess in my case my bike is a year older, with more miles, and probably in much worse shape than yours so everything is done the easy way to keep it in running condition for a little while longer. I have enough leaks everywhere else on the bike that this seal is the least of my worries - ha!
     


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  6. pjrocco

    pjrocco New Member

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    I have the same issue with my 84' 500 right now. It has been getting worse and worse and this season is started streaming instead of the occasional drip.

    My mechanic will not take any short cuts on this one since it is a liability issue if I wreck because of oil on the back tire.

    He is looking to charge me 4 hours of labor at $75 per hour ($300) to pull the motor, flip it upside down, crack the case, replace seal and reinstall. Good price?
     


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  7. matt1986vf500f

    matt1986vf500f New Member

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    ouch!! looks like you got some work ahead of you good luck man! :thumbsup:
     


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  8. Pcohen

    Pcohen New Member

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    Yea thats not a bad price for that
     


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  9. JamieDaugherty

    JamieDaugherty New Member

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    That's a good price because he'll never get that work done in only 4 hours.
     


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  10. pjrocco

    pjrocco New Member

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    He actually said it would probably take him 6-7 hours, but he would quote me at 4 hours since I've been a loyal customer and brought him new business. :thumbsup:
     


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  11. Ghost

    Ghost New Member

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    The lip there serves several purposes. Its primary function is to hold the seal in place and not let it vibrate. Some vibration of the seal is expected, hence the compression of the two case halfs. Second function is, knowing there will be "some" vibration, it allows for oil if passing, to keep the rubber clean and "healthy". It double serves this function by its third purpose, to keep dirt and water out. We all know what happens when dirt and water hits the side walls of an oil seal. The effects arent immediate, hence as noted above, its a temporary fix.

    My first choice, would be to do the work myself. Really, its time consuming, and you will learn more about how your bike works...but this is just me. My second choice, if you dont have the time, would be to pay the guy to replace it... its a guaranteed fix. and if the mechanic sees seal wall damage on the steel, he can bead it with a film of high temp oil resistant silicone sealer.

    my, got to be close to death option, would be to drain the engine as best as you can of oil. with just your finger, use a cotton rag, and put a very very small amount of gasoline on the rag at the tip of your finger, and rub / clean the seal seat. you dont want ANY oil left there. use some automotive engine silicone (blue), and apply a very, very small bead behind the lip. ensure your new seal is dry, tie a string around it, by going through the center hole, and around, and tie it in a strong not, but not tight against the rubber. put the seal in place, cut the string, and pull it out... (be sure you cut it between the seal and the knot, so that the knot isnt going to be pulled through the seal). use your pinky finger and reach through and pull the seal tightly to the silicone, and up against the lip. insert your rod, and let it sit for 24 hrs. then fill with oil, and check for leaks. (its not fool proof, but if you dont have a few hundred to spend, you arent hurting anything... could get you by till you do get the money)
     


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  12. DaveAr

    DaveAr New Member

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    ghost sorry my english but not undertand how is your method, thanks four your attention
     


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