Electrical probs - mechanics stumped!

Hi,

My 2000 VFR is in the mechanics for an intermittant problem and after about 6 hours of searching they say they can't find anything wrong. Just wondering if any VFR rider has ever had the same issue and can pass on any advice I can pass on to the experts!! Basic problem: After riding for while, I put bike into neutral. The neutral light (sometimes) starts to flicker and there is sometimes a strange clicking/rattly sound which seems to be coming from around the steering head/instrument panel area. It used to go when I put the bike into gear but now has started doing it in gear as well

Bike at the same time (sometimes) starts farting and burbling, even with revs up to around 4000rpm. Sometimes the neutral light goes out and then bike stalls. If the neutral light stays out it can't be restarted until you flick it in and then out of gear or turn key off and then on again. On one occasion a couple of days ago, the neutral light went out when idling but bike was running fine and light would come on again if I took the revs over 4000rpm, then die when they dropped back to idle.

Sounds weird I know...the bike shop certainly don't know what it is but it frustraing the hell out of me!! They are adamant they have checked all connections, switches, regular, rectifier, stator etc etc. Any clues???

pete

 

I have a friend with a suzuki that had smiliar problem and had to replace his nuetral position switch and/or his kickstand switch. It was causing the motor problems because it would switch so fast between okay and bad, it would only make he motor bog down. It was weird. I think he replaced the nuetral switch before the sidestand switch because they werent sure what it was.

Maybe try measuring the resistance of the nuetral and side stand switches to make sure they aren't the culprit. Then, I would take the front of the dash off, and look for any wires that might be pinched, striped or corroded.

 

Sounds like a poor connection on main power supply. Start by checking your battery terminals and all the 'big' cable connections, both ends, positive and negative.

You may also want to check the starter relay/main fuse holder...it distributes positive battery power to all the electrics on the bike.

All that being good I would wiggle the wires that go directly under the ignition switch to see if it is making a poor contact.

 

Cheers, someone else had made the comment that maybe it was the side-stand switch cutting in. Will mention both to the mechanics when I check in on the patient this morning.

pete
Sydney

 

THOSE "mechanics" aren't much good if they haven't already checked the 2 switches......

ALSO check for a bad cell in battery and the R/R and connections to it, and ignition switch.

 

Did they get it fixed? Here's another vote for checking the sidestand and neutral switches.

 

Electrical probs - 3 weeks on and bike still at shop!!!

Hi,

and thanks for the late mail! My 2000 VFR has now been at the (Sydney AUST) Honda Dealer workshop for 3 weeks and who knows how many hours of labour but.... they have still not fixed the problem. Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr!!!

They have stripped down the bike twice, checked every electrical circuit, wire, junction, switch, replaced the neutral switch and sidestand switch but still not fixed the initial problem. The latest theory is that it might be the 'tilt switch' but I can't say I am brimming with confidence - we'll see when they replace that.

Problem now is that not only am I still without my wheels I am now fearful of what kind of bill I will be face with if/when the bike is fixed but worse still, what position I am in if the bike is not fixed and they simply give up and then send me the bill!!! Any lawyers out there??? Hopefully it won't come to that. The shop has assured me that they will not charge me for every hour of labour and that we will sit down and 'negotiate' a final price that is fair to me and them. Mmmmm.. we'll see.

Thanks for everyone's suggestions anyway - they have been passed on to the shop and added to the mix.

pete
Sydney

 

Intermittent probems can be tricky...bench testing switches and relays usually isn't very effective unless they're dead out failed. I would suggest bypassing them one at a time to see if the problem goes away before just 'throwing' parts at it...including the 'tilt sensor' (I understand it's a little late for that advice).

I wonder if the problem at the dealership is they can't get it to fail consistently enough for verification or troubleshooting? If not I'd sure think a proficient tech would have 'nailed' it by now.