1986 VFR 750 Problems

Discussion in 'Mechanics Garage' started by Micrider, Aug 6, 2008.

  1. Micrider

    Micrider New Member

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    That is exactly what mine was doing, it would click and get hot but not pump fuel...and Definitely the factory pump was $151 at the dealership! They do cost an arm and a leg but it was worth the cash just to hear her go Vroom! Vroom!
     


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  2. heymike

    heymike New Member

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    Way to go. Glad to see you are motivated enough to stick with it and not spend an arm and a leg. I love my 'ol girl. It's pretty cool to watch all the heads turn to look at it. Stay with it. As for tires, I'm on my second set of Pirelli Sport Demons. I got about 10K out my rear last season.
     


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  3. Micrider

    Micrider New Member

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    Hey fellas I got a quick question; If the chain does not have tension will the motorcycle die when put into first gear?
     


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  4. heymike

    heymike New Member

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    If your asking if the clutch is engaged and you put it in first gear. No the motor should not die. The motor could care less if a chain is connected to the tranny.
     


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  5. eddievalleytrailer

    eddievalleytrailer Member

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    Does it have a switch on the sidestand? On the parts breakdown, I don't see one. But, if it does, that's where I'd start.
     


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  6. Seidts

    Seidts New Member

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    LINE YOUR TANK!!! Contents partially unknown

    Your description of your tank made me write this. I think you used the word "krusty" I am trying to save you a lot of hassle by giving you a warning, especially if the bike has been sitting for 10 years.
    I just bought a my first Honda V-four. It's an 85 VF700F. It was in beautiful shape with a little sun fading and such. The problems that she had were few but intense. It needed fork seals. Not so intense. She had a leaky tank..... intense.
    Granted, I'm new to Vf's, but I'm not new to the wrench or bikes, and, I declare, that older VF's and VFR's had a design flaw in the tanks. Some may get a little upset but some might see the truth.
    How can I describe this?
    Look at the side of the tank under the petcock. Along the bottom edge of the tank is the seam where the halves were joined. No problem just a weld, right? Wrong. On my 85, there is a weld and but there is a "crevasse" inside the tank with a gap of about 4 mm. You can see this by looking at the underside of the tank. Now look at the petcock. It is at this level that fuel leaves the tank. There is a metal tube inside the tank that goes below this but not that much lower. As your bike sits on it's stand for ten years, guess what happens. All of the moisture (water) that will condense inside your tank will go to this lowest valley and sit in the "gap". It will begin to dine on the inside of your tank. It will never leave you tank due to the level of the outgoing fuel tube (even the reserve) does not extend down in to this crevasse . I know that a lot of tanks have this problem and it's just the nature of gas tanks. I have a bunch of old Hondas that have holes rusted in their lower portions but this is pretty extreme. If you like your current "stock" paint scheme LINE YOUR TANK. It is just a matter of time in which you will see your paint bubbling along this edge and by then it's too late. It's off to the paint shop after you LINE YOUR TANK! I used to have a slightly faded but stock paint job on my VF but now it is flat black. It's pretty bad-ass looking but I prefer to keep all of my bikes stock if I can help it.
    There is a kit you can buy. The product is called POR-15. I do not own stock in this company but I wish I did. In the kit you'll find everything you need to do the job. It costs around $40 and it takes a couple of days. Do everything they say in the instructions. When they say dry your tank, dry it like the f-in desert. When they say to remove the remainder of the sealant do it. This stuff is by far the most amazing product that I've seen that will do this job. The most amusing part is if you read the label it says "contents partially unknown." It means that it is good. It is REALLY bad for you to breathe so don't do it in your dining room. Step one is just a strong detergent, step two is phosphoric acid which stings in your eyes. The sealant is the nasty stuff. But it is soooo good.
    Hints: Use a vacuum to get the loose stuff out of your tank. Attach a 1' length of 5/8" hose to the vac hose with some duct-tape and this will help you get in to the tank through the various holes. A wet/dry vac will help you get the rinse water out and some sacrificial glue syringes and fuel hose will help you get the extra sealant out. You will have a bunch of sealant left over that you will suck out of the tank so if you have anything small that you want to rust-proof have it clean and ready to accept the leftovers. It truly is amazing stuff. If you get it on your tools it will never come off. If you get it on your hands you will never get it off. If you get it on your beautiful paint..... you guessed it, it will never come off. Masking tape is your friend.
    The process is time consuming (translated: pains in the ass) but the end result is wonderful. It is the best $40 bucks I've spent in a long time. Godspeed----S
     


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  7. relic rider

    relic rider New Member

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    My guess is that the clutch plates are stuck so its like jambing the bike into gear without the clutch lever pulled in so the bike dies .On another note I wish my bike looked as good as yours does.
     


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  8. eddievalleytrailer

    eddievalleytrailer Member

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    Maybe it would help if you could describe "die". Does it just die, or does the shifter "CHUNK" into gear killing the bike? Why does the chain not have tention?
     


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  9. squirrelman

    squirrelman Member

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    there is a technique to brake the clutch loose while riding but it requires bravery and coordination and luck......but i don't want to be liable if a tip-over ensues.
     


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  10. Micrider

    Micrider New Member

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    With the Clutch engaged I try to pop it into first gear, and it jerks forward and dies instantly. When I try to start the bike in first gear with the clutch engaged, instead of starting it stutters and the back wheel tries to spin. Does this signal a bad clutch?
     


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  11. Micrider

    Micrider New Member

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    This does sort of sound like the problem. If so; the only way to fix it is a new clutch?
     


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  12. speed

    speed New Member

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    [​IMG]
    Hey i think we must be brother laws ? i think i married your wife's sister heheh
    [​IMG]
    sorry i could not resist
     


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  13. Micrider

    Micrider New Member

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    Speed your bike is seriously nice.
     
    Last edited: Sep 22, 2008


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  14. crustyrider

    crustyrider New Member

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    that would be Speed, not insider. insider means he gave up some hard earned dough to help differ costs for this lovely site.. still, your right it is a nice ride. heres mine not as nice.
     

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  15. crustyrider

    crustyrider New Member

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    not the picture I wanted to , but this one is she's not naked.....
     

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  16. eddievalleytrailer

    eddievalleytrailer Member

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    Your clutch plates are stuck. I'd pull the clutch apart and seperate the plates. You might ruin some of them in the process, so I'd be ready with a new clutch kit in hand.
     


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  17. Seidts

    Seidts New Member

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    Free your clutch

    If your clutch is stuck on itself then follow these simple steps:
    1. Make sure that your bike has oil in it. If it has been running then......
    2. Put your bike in the back of a pickup truck.
    3. Tie down the front only.
    4. Put your bike in 5th gear.
    5. Put a cable tie around your clutch handle in the "pulled in" position
    6. Drive around with the bike in the back of the truck.
    Only do this if your are sure that you clutch slave cylinder is working. If you don't have a working slave cylinder then you will not be able to disengage your clutch no matter what. The rocking back and forth in the back of the truck will beat on the clutch plates until they give up their hold on each other. This also works well for (some) engines that are seized. The only differences are that you don't disengage the clutch and you spray some penetrating oil in to the cylinders.
    Try to leave a little play in the tie downs but not so much that it isn't safe. You want you bike to have a little movement back and forth. Good luck.
     


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  18. Micrider

    Micrider New Member

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    How Much should a new clutch kit cost? And if the plates are stuck does that mean I definitely need to get a brand new clutch?
     


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  19. squirrelman

    squirrelman Member

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    when a bike has been sitting for a long time the clutch plates can stick together, and if tranny is in any gear the bike wants to move regardless of whether you squeeze the clutch handle or not.....

    the plates usually free up by jerking the bike between throttle and brakes on the first ride, and taking it apart is NOT necessary.
     
    Last edited: Oct 4, 2008


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  20. thewitchdr

    thewitchdr New Member

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    Have you let the bike warm up sufficiently? Heat may help disengage the clutch plates. Unless springs are broken. If you are brave (and have insurance, to include health coverage) you can try push starting the bike and then gassing and rear breaking simaltaniously, and judiciously. Just a thought. I'll probably get some crap for it. lol
    I would wear alot of crash gear if you try this.
     


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