Dead bike, good battery???

First time on here and have a question.....
I have a 98VFR rode on Sat. got up Sun. morning to ride and as I started it up it faded out and died....I took the battery in and put it on the tender....it was fully charged in less than an hour which leads me to believe it's not the battery.
I put it back in and she sparked right up and started right up again today....but....on starting, the clock and other digital displays reset.....
could there be another problem? Not looking to get stranded anywhere.

 

Your R/R is deal. Do you have a multimeter? If so, set it to 20v and put the leads on the battery terminals with the bike running. You should be getting around 13.5 or higher at idle and as you increase the revs up to 5000, it should jump up above 14v.

You will probably find that you get low 12's, which means you need to replace your R/R.

It sounds like your battery is good, thus explaining the quick top off. When I had the same problem with my bike, I found that I could ride it for about 90 minutes, before the battery was drained enough to not fire the bike.

 

Hey thanks for the info.... now to share my ignorance.... OEM??? R/R problem??? I'm not as savvy as I would like to be about maintenance....

 

The R/R is your regulator rectifier. I don't know where it is located on the 5th gens, however on 4th gens, its right under your right but cheek. It bolts right onto the bike. The R/R takes the AC current from the stator (alternator) and transforms it to DC voltage, which then charges the battery. The symptoms that your bike is experiencing sounds like its a fried R/R. It is the biggest problem 3rd, 4th and 5th gens experience, as the original ones that came on the bikes, were not up to the task. However Honda developed and now sells a much beefier one for about $250, or you can get one from Ricks Motorsport's Electrics for about $140. Both have had excellent feedback.

Replacing my R/R was the first repair I had to do on my bike, and I found it surprisingly easy to do. All you need to do is take off the rear tail plastics, and there it is. Unbolt the old, bolt on the new, and plug the connector back in.

However to be 100% sure its the R/R you need to test the voltage with a voltage meter or multimeter. They cost about $20, and are well worth the investment.

Once you get that, report back, and I will walk you through the rest, or PM me and I will send you my phone number, and I can talk you through it. Its really easy to do.

 

OK, well after $150 including overnight shipping the new R/R is on and the battery is fully charged and now all i get is a constant "Clicking" near the fuse box next to the battery...I'm really frustrated because it's beautiful out and I don't know enough about my own bike to know what's wrong........Anyone??