95' VFR 750 electrical issues

Hello all,

I am a newbie to this forum. After reading many threads here, I believe VFRWorld is where VFR experts hang around.

I have a 95 VFR750 for sometimes now. It's been very reliable.

Just a day ago, the bike lost electrical/charge completely. No clock, no light, no turn signal, no horn, nothing. I was riding it on 87 in San Jose and noticed all the meters pointed at 0. Once I got to the side of the road, it failed to start.

I checked all the wires to make sure they are connected properly and cleaned the corrosion.

Anyone has any suggestions what else I need to look at. Any help is greatly appreciated.

-Tom

 

Sounds like your regulator/rectifier kicked the bucket. Have you checked it?

 

Yep, I;d say your R/R is the issue. Fully charge your battery. Then, get out a digital voltmeter and make sure it has at least 12.89 volts. Instal in the bike, connect the battery cables and recheck. Turn the key on and start the bike. At idle, voltage will probably be between 12.89 volts and 13.5 volts. Increase engine RPM to 5000 and watch the foltage on the meter. It should increase as RPM's increase, to a max of 14.5 volts to about 16 volts at 5000 RPM. If at any point the voltage drops off before 5K, or the volts do not increase, the R/R needs to be replaced. Point of note: R/R's can work intermittently, meaning they work one moment and maybe not the next (I had this same problem. Also make sure the 3 yellow wires to the stator are not burnt and plastic 3-prong connector is not melted. If so, replace the R/R and the connector. I am not sure if honda has a connector kit or not.

 

Even if Honda does not supply a connector kit, it's a simple matter to cut up an old connector and re-wire the whole charging system so that it is still "plug and play". In addition, I feel that having the individual connectors with some air space around them inside the R/R connector receptacle probably keeps things a few degrees cooler.

The R/R is in such a location that it is not prone to getting moist, even under a downpour or a thorough washing. So if you have to plug in 5 connectors instead of just one. Just keep track of the (+) and the (-), or you're gonna pop that 30A main fuse!!! Ask me how I know!:unsure:

 

Man O man, these guys are on the ball, I say what they said... good job guys.:wink:

 

How many miles on that bike?

 

How many miles ain't got nothing to do with it FrankoQ

 

I would start with checking the battery, connection at the battery and main fuse off the positive battery cable. Like stated above it maybe due to a faulty R/R in which casee you should replace with the factory upgraded unit and new battery.

 

Thank you.

Thank you all for great suggestions.

I will try them tonight and let you all know tomorrow.

Thanks

 

Doesn't the RR tend to go bad after a certain mileage?

 

Nope. The R/R could fail at anytime. They could last 500 miles, or 50,000 miles. The OEM unit is not prone to reliability and I have heard of some going out pretty quickly. The best way to know if you have a charging problem is to put a voltmeter on your bike so you can see what the charging system is doing and so that you would be alerted early to a possible problem.

 

Ok. thanks.
Is there anything to do to help it last longer?
I've read of people adding a PC fan to keep it cool.
Not sure if that would help.

 

I charged the batttery to full before puttinig it on the bike. I still don't see any power, i.e. no light, no clock, nothing. Is there any other problem other than the R/R?

Thanks.

 

main fuse off the positive battery cable?

 

I agree with you SLOVFR...check the battery connections, the big cables...the ground...and the main fuse, if the bike is stone dead lickety split. RR's are a known issue with VFR's, but it's easy to jump to conclusions.

Franko...some things are definitely hard on charging systems...poor connections...chronically weak battery...make sure you have a good fully charged battery...using your bike as a battery charger makes stuff get real hot.

 

I think the circuit is shorted.

I found the main fuse off the positive cable was blown. I replaced it with a new one. As soon as I connect the battery cables, the fuse was blown again.

Looks like I need to trace the cables. Do you have any suggestions of places to start? Any known issues related to this?

Many thanks.

 

Disconnect the R/R and replace the fuse again.

If the fuse stays intact, you have your culprit. If not, something else is melted.

 

If the original culprit happened to be the R/R...
Check the connections to the R/R and all wires leading to and from it.

If it went out on you (i.e. FRIED) then it is quite possible that one, some or all the wires fried up too.
If this be the case...your positive (red) wire leading from the R/R to the starter soleniod may be fried/melted and not providing proper connectivity from starter soleniod to battery.
1 red wire goes from R/R - starter soleniod - battery
1 red/white goes from front meters - starter soleniod - battery

Had a loose connection once on positive wire at S/S after re-wiring my R/R and bike is dead without this connection.

just a thought.
-S

 

An open connection won't blow your main fuse. You've got a dead short. Your positive lead from the battery is touching a ground somewhere on the frame...or a ground wire...or a component that has voltage to it at all times is shorted, like the mainfuse hold/ starter relay. I think VT Viffer is on to something. If the wrong wires in the harness to your RR melted together....like one of the reds to one of the green grounds...whamo!! There goes the main fuse.

 

You guys rocks. The R/R went bad.

VT Viffer, You are dead on. I disconnected the wires from R/R and then connected the battery to the electrical cables, the bike started without any problem.

My next question, where do I buy an R/R for 95' VFR 750? I searched around on the net, I don't see many people selling it. I should take advise from the experts.

Thanks