carb installation Help Me Please!!!

ive got an 84 vf750f, ive broken three fuel lines so far trying to install the the carbs back onto the bike, is there any technique on installing these carbs without breaking the crappy plastic fuel lines?? does anyone sell metal fuel lines for it, i know they exsist because one of the three lines btw the carbs on my bike is aluminum so they are out there. im a broke college student and i cant afford to keep spending 35 bucks a piece on these pieces of crap

 

Getting them on is a pain. All carbed V4s are the same. What I do is first seat the rear carbs into the boots, then work the fronts in. You'll need to apply a fair amount of pressure to the air cleaner base (which your carbs are bolted to) in order to get them in.

 

try using a little shot of wd40 or dishsoap around the inside of the rubber intake boots for lube:rambo::kaboom::2guns:

 

don't put the fuel line back on until after the carbs are in?

 

how do you go about doing that? im talking the plastic ones that go between each carb

 

should i have the air cleaner base bolted on the next time i try to put the carbs back on?

 

Here you go:

eBay Motors: Fuel Tubes, Carb -Honda V45 V65 Sabre Magna Interceptor (item 300226335798 end time May-26-08 18:30:00 PDT)
eBay Motors: Fuel Tubes V65 V45 V30 Magna Sabre Interceptor Super (item 120263014961 end time May-22-08 08:45:33 PDT)

 

A rubber deadblow hammer is your friend in this situation. A few light taps once the carb is line up with the boot, and you're in like flynn.

Might also be that your boots are hardened too much and don't have the pliability to allow the carbs to "slip" back in smoothly. In this instance, use a blowtorch set on it's LOWEST setting and "cook" the carb boots a little bit to make them softer.

I had mine back on the bike in 5 minutes.

 

Yes!!! have the air cleaner base on when you "shoehorn" those carbs in. Loosen BOTH intake boot clamps as loose as they go. Silicone spray is a good rubber lube. Sometimes I use a heat gun to warm the manifold boots a bit. I noticed JamieDaugherty has a good step by step for carb install on his website.

 

ok thats what ive gathered from you guys and the manual i recently acquired, i also ordered the metal fuel lines that slovfr's links sent me to, hopefully they will be here tomorrow if not tuesday

 

Try Jamie Daugherty's method at http://www.daughertymotorsports.com
Follow the "How To" link to the carb removal/installation page.

 

The easiest way to do this is to never unbolt them from the air cleaner base. Short of replacing components from between the carbs you should never have to split them, I have done these about once a year on all three of my early VF's. If all you are doing is cleaning or rejetting just remove the bowls and do not disturb the springs or plastic fuel lines. I have a small deadblow hammer that I use to reinstall them in the rubber boots. I also use a hose pick used for removing radiator hoses that I use to get the carbs started in the boots and then it is pretty straight forward.

 

ya i made the mistake of taking the carbs off of the air cleaner base, i had nothing to go off of when i was pulling it apart and from my experiences as a mechanic so far the more you take off the easier it is to work on whatever part you are working on, unfortunately im still waiting on my new fuel lines to come before i can use all of the advice everyone has been giving but i should be up and running next week

 

so update.... carbs are on life is better but it wont start, carbs are getting gas, i checked, and i can get it to cough when i spray ether directly into the carbs with the aircleaner off, the bike ran before i took the carbs off to begin and i never touched the float setting when they were apart, i tested the coils and wires and the coils were fine but the continuity test on the wires was hit and miss, one second they passed the next they failed, not sure if im having an ignition problem or a fuel problem, or both, any thoughts

 

did you take out the idle screws? out of adjustment? fouled plugs? Did you take a plug out and see what it looked like and check spark that way?

 

i havent messed with the idle screw, if its not raining here tomorrow like its supposed to ill pull the plugs on it and test them, i doubt they are fouled because it was firing fine before i pulled the carbs originally but its worth a shot, im just hoping i dont have to rip back into the carbs because maybe the float setting got messed up or something, now what about the pilot jet, should i try cleaning and adjusting it or just let it be?

 

I always remove the slow mixture screw, spring, washer and oring when I do V4 carbs, as well as inspect float level. I kinda doubt if that's why yours isn't running, though. Even if the slow circuits are clogged, it should run with the enrichener lever in cold position, as long as that circuit (they were the fixed jets inside the float bowl) is open.

Take a look at the spark plugs...see if they're firing...check to see if they're wet...fouled plugs can happen pretty easy sometimes. You sure the carbs (all) are filling with gas?

 

plugs are brand new and firing, i also found one carb that didnt have fuel in it so i pulled the carbs back off and ripping everything apart again

 

does anyone know how to take the starter jets out of these things, my manual is telling me to take them out but there is nothing to grab onto with a screwdriver or anything and a pliers just marks up the sides of it

 

nevermind i think i found the problem, the fuel pump relay isnt working